What to do if phalaenopsis does not bloom?
When a flower chosen for home cultivation, not only for its bright beauty, but also for almost year-round flowering, does not want to bloom at all, this causes both annoyance and bewilderment. About why the Phalaenopsis orchid does not bloom, and how to solve this problem will be discussed in the article.
Phalaenopsis flowering period
It must be at least 2 years after planting before this orchid blooms. The first six months of its existence, the plant actively develops the root system, then comes the turn of building green mass and developing aerial roots.
As the leaves grow, flower buds are laid in their sinuses, from which peduncles will then develop. It follows that the more successful the period of laying flower buds passes, the more flowering will be. And this largely depends on the composition of the soil, which will be described below.
Did you know? The variety of shapes and colors of orchid flowers can sweeten the eyes of any person, which can not be said about olfactory sensations. Some types of orchids exude truly nasty smells.
Why phalaenopsis does not bloom at home
The answer here is obvious: it means that the optimal conditions for growth were not created for the orchid. And the reasons for this may be various factors.
Exposure to external factors
Lighting, ambient temperature, its humidity - all this directly affects the comfort of the plant. Accustomed to diffused light under the cover of a tropical forest, the orchid does not tolerate direct sunlight, which drains its aerial roots.
However, this does not mean that she does not need good lighting. Although it is under diffuse, but rather prolonged exposure to light in the jungle, the flower requires at least 8 hours of daylight hours at home, and for active flowering it can be extended even up to 14-16 hours. If it is shorter, then the green mass of the orchid will grow wildly, but the flowers can not wait.
Otherwise, flower buds may simply not be tied in the axils of the leaves. Soil moisture also directly affects the ability of a plant to bloom safely. Excessive watering during the budding period of the orchid, as a rule, leads to the cessation of flowering, as well as a lack of moisture in the soil during the flowering period.
Important! After transplantation, phalaenopsis should not be fed with fertilizers for 3 to 4 weeks.
The root system of the phalaenopsis consists of underground and aerial roots; therefore, planting or replanting a flower is often associated with the danger of submerging aerial roots under the soil layer, which in no case should be done. In addition, during the transplant, underground roots that have undergone rotting or drying out are cut off, which causes the plant to stress from which it leaves for at least six months. It is clear that during this period the orchid is not able to bloom.
If during plant transplanting, a lot of air and underground roots are cut off, then in the loose soil that the orchid prefers, it simply does not hold well. Thus, it is necessary to prune flower stalks to give stability to the entire bush, which also interrupts flowering.
Incorrect fertilizer application
This orchid is very responsive to top dressing and requires their application at least every decade. However, there is an extremely important feature. If nitrogen prevails in fertilizers, such as organic ones, then this leads to violent development of leaf mass and significantly inhibits the laying of future peduncles.
This happens because the formation of flower buds, from which peduncles develop, requires not nitrogen, but minerals in the form of potassium, magnesium and phosphorus.
In addition, in the process of fertilizing the flower with fertilizers, it is necessary to adhere to the following rules:
- do not fertilize under the orchid during its short dormancy;
- No need to feed the plant if it is weak or sick;
- Do not apply root dressing during flowering;
- using foliar top dressing, you must be careful not to get fertilizers on the buds and flowers.
Diseases and pests
In addition to the fact that non-compliance with orchid cultivation conditions leads to problems with flowering, this also provokes the appearance of diseases on it and the invasion of pests on a weakened plant, which further exacerbates problems with the flowering of the plant.
First of all, yellowing leaves testify to its dysfunction, the appearance of which is caused by improper temperature conditions, lack of lighting, lack or excess of moisture in the soil.
Did you know? Of all the orchids growing on our planet, to date, experts and amateurs have bred more than a quarter of a million varieties of these plants that did not exist previously in nature.
These non-infectious causes of problems open a direct path to the onset of infections in the form of:
- powdery mildew, characterized by the appearance on the leaves and buds of white plaque;
- brown rot, leaving watery brown spots on young shoots and leaves;
- spotting, covering the leaves with circular, striped or mosaic spots;
- gray rot, creating a fluffy coating of gray color on the leaves and processes and covering the flowers with small spots;
- root rot, causing the root system to soften and rot, and the leaves to acquire a brown color;
- rust covering the lower part of the leaves with a red coating;
- anthracnose, which forms growing black spots on the foliage;
- Fusarium rot, depriving turgor leaves and forming a pink coating on them.
In addition to diseases, pests represented by:
- the aphid covering the flowers, shoots and the back of the leaves with a sticky texture, because of which they lose their original shape;
- shields that hide on the leaves under the growths they create;
- whiteflies, which are small white insects, leading to yellowing of the leaves and their subsequent decay;
- thrips forming a silver film on all fragments of the bush;
- a mealybug, forming a cottony plaque on the plant;
- ticks, entangling the bush with a thin cobweb and causing the leaves to curl and dry.
Important! With a depleted root system and the loss of turgor leaves, it is impossible to arrange an orchid to simulate a drought or rainy season, since this can lead to the death of the plant.
What to do and how to make the Phalaenopsis orchid bloom
Florists have accumulated rich experience in stimulating flowering in orchids.
To do this, they use such techniques:
- Spray the bush with a growth stimulator. If Epin is used for this, then in the amount of 5 drops it is diluted in 200 g of water and the plant is sprayed with the resulting solution daily in the morning.
- The second method is less gentle in relation to the plant, but makes its genetic memory invigorate, which stores memories of dry periods that occur in natural conditions. For this, an artificial “drought” is created in the house , which consists in a temporary cessation of watering.
- There is also a diametrically opposite imitation, which resembles an orchid about the rainy seasons that regularly occur in natural conditions. To do this, the pot with the plant is immersed in water at a temperature of + 35 ° C for 4 days. After these procedures, there follows a half-month “drought period” with a complete cessation of irrigation and its subsequent restoration in normal mode.
- You can induce phalaenopsis to bloom by treating the bush with warm water using a spray. A positive effect is possible only by spraying three times during the day until the beginning of flowering.
- It stimulates the flowering of the orchid and the stress it receives during a sharp temperature drop and the interval between + 18 ° C and + 25 ° C. To do this, the flower pot is taken out to a cooler place for the night, and in the morning it returns to the usual warm place until a new peduncle appears on the bush. It should be remembered that a temperature below + 18 ° C is already dangerous for the orchid.
- Oddly enough, but flowering also stimulates pruning. This is due to the presence of sleeping flower buds in the axils of the leaves, which, when cutting the peduncle, wake up and throw out new peduncles. For this, the peduncle is cut 2-3 cm higher than the flower buds so that they do not dry out.
- There is a more severe method, which implies for the flower a sharp change in the usual environment to a wetter and darker one. For this, a place under the kitchen sink is quite suitable. After staying in such conditions for a month and returning to a permanent place at the same time as watering, the orchid not only throws out new flower stalks, but also often forms “children”, which can become new orchids.
Since problems with the state of the plant are easier to prevent than to eliminate later, it is useful to remember what you should not do to avoid these problems:
- Waterlogging of the soil and the appearance of drops of water on the foliage should not be allowed, which leads to decay and the appearance of fungal diseases.
- Do not water orchids at night, as this leads to hypothermia and provokes the occurrence of fungal infections.
- Do not water orchids with tap water, as the salts in its composition precipitate on the root processes and prevent them from absorbing moisture normally with nutrients. In extreme cases, you can occasionally use well-defended tap water.
- It is not recommended to abuse fertilizers and experiment with their proportions. It is best to use top dressing specifically designed for orchids, scrupulously following the instructions.
- Newly acquired plants should not be immediately placed next to long-growing houses in order to avoid infection without an appropriate quarantine period.
- It is not necessary to remove the faded flower stalk before it dries, because over time (after 2-3 months), the dry flower stalk can bloom again and even form “children”.
- In no case can you keep phalaenopsis under burning sunbeams, which not only can burn the leaves, but also are able to dry aerial roots.
Important! In order for this orchid to present in all its glory for almost a year, you can not do without artificial lighting in the winter.
Features of plant care
The most important component of orchid care is its competent watering. As already mentioned, it is extremely undesirable to use tap water for this, especially unstated.
This plant requires soft water in the form of:
Several methods of watering the orchid are used:
- During the spill, water pours along the edges of the tank, after which it flows through the drainage holes into the sump. This method is recommended after a plant transplant.
- A container with an orchid is immersed in water for 10 minutes, as a result of which water penetrates the soil through the top and through the drainage holes.
- During a partial dive, the phalaenopsis pot is placed in a pan with water for a quarter, or even half a day. Through the drainage holes, the root system actively absorbs water, and in parallel, the soil in the pot is partially moistened.
- In order to arrange a warm shower for an orchid, it is placed in a bath and watered from the shower with water heated to + 40 ° С. But after this procedure, which is very useful to phalaenopsis, it can not be immediately moved to a cooler room. It is also strongly recommended that you dab the deciduous sinuses with a napkin.
Video: orchid watering methods
No less moisture on the normal growth of this plant affects the optimal light regime. The desired daylight hours for this orchid are between 8 and 16 hours. In this case, the following trend is observed: the shorter this day, the stronger the green mass grows to the detriment of flowering, and the longer it is, the more magnificent the bush blooms.
Since phalaenopsis prefers moist air, in the winter, when central heating or any other continuous heating dries the air in the house, the plant can get rid of flowers, the buds on it will dry out, the leaves will lose turgor, and the aerial roots will dry out. During this period, it is imperative to humidify the air with humidifiers.
Learn more about the diseases and pests of Phalaenopsis orchids.
It is useful to spray bushes from fine sprayers, as well as to place wide containers with water near flower pots or to place wet towels near them. A significant role in abundant and prolonged flowering is played by fertilizing fertilizers, as mentioned above.
It should be clarified that the best option can be special preparations designed specifically for orchids ("Dr. Foley", "Mr. Color").
If a plant that is able to continuously and luxuriantly bloom almost all year round blooms sluggishly, for a short time or does not bloom at all, then it is entirely up to man to blame. Meanwhile, if you make some efforts and observe elementary conditions, you can achieve excellent flowering from the Phalaenopsis orchid, pleasing to the eye at any time of the year.