What and how to properly feed dwarf rabbits
Dwarf rabbits, unlike their larger counterparts, are raised exclusively for decorative purposes. This means that the diet of babies should be selected with extreme caution. About how to feed small pets, which products are strictly contraindicated, and which, on the contrary, are vitally important - in general, everything about the diet of dwarf rabbits can be found in this article.
How to feed a dwarf rabbit at home
For a pet, it is important not to quickly gain weight, but to have a long and maximally active life. The owner should first of all know that all rabbits, regardless of size, have a sensitive digestive system. Unlike other mammals, these close relatives of rabbits eat almost continuously, and this state of affairs is not due to gluttony.
Did you know? The rabbit’s intestines, if deployed in one line, will take the same distance in length as ten of its owners, placed in a row one after another.
For normal functioning of the digestive system, food must be constantly present in its stomach and intestines, therefore, regardless of other types of food, fresh dry hay must always be present in the cell (the presence of clean water is also equally important).
The rest of the pet diet is formed on the basis of three components:
- solid (coarse) food;
- green
- juicy.
Therefore, between what and how much the pet eats, and how long it will please the owners with its touching fuss, there is an absolutely direct connection.
Important! According to statistics, the most common cause of death of dwarf rabbits are problems associated with digestion and improper feeding, namely: constipation, diarrhea and obesity, which primarily affects the liver.
Roughage
Solid food - branches of trees and shrubs, straw, hay - in the wild is the basis of nutrition of mammals of the hare family and is necessary for dwarf rabbits. It is not only rich in fiber, vegetable protein, vitamins and minerals, but also provides the grinding process for teeth that grow in rabbits throughout their lives.
Did you know? The upper incisors in rabbits grow two millimeters per week. If the animal does not have the ability to grind them normally, it begins to resemble a saber-toothed tiger with its appearance. This is what the animal looks like, which lives in the Chinese province of Jiangsu (Huai'an County). The atypically large teeth of a rabbit are a painful condition called malocclusion. It arises precisely due to the lack of roughage in the diet of the animal.
As for the twigs, it is very important to know which trees are suitable for rabbits as a "bite" and which can cause serious poisoning in the animal. Summarized information on this subject is given in the table:
Trees and shrubs suitable for rabbits | Trees and shrubs that can be used with some caution | Trees and shrubs whose branches are contraindicated for rabbits |
Apple tree | pear | lilac |
plum | sweet cherry | bird cherry |
cherry plum | cherry | rosemary |
apricot | Birch | wolf bast |
willow | oak | elder |
acacia (young, without thorns) | Rowan | oleander |
mulberry | Pine | |
Linden | spruce | |
aspen | alder | |
poplar | Walnut | |
ash | juniper | |
hazel | willow | |
currant (without berries) | chestnut | |
grape |
Succulent feed
Juicy foods - vegetables, fruits and berries - in the wild are for rabbits more of a delicacy than the main type of food. To include such types of products in the diet of decorative kids for this reason, you need to be careful. In the cold season, when vitamins rich in vitamins are scarce, succulent feeds are a good way to make up for the growing shortage of these elements.
Important! The digestive system of dwarf rabbits is poorly adapted for processing wet foods, so too much of such food in the diet of babies causes a violation of intestinal tone and, as a result, they become ill.
The following are products that, as top dressing (in small portions), can be included in the diet of dwarf rabbits older than four months of age:
Vegetables | Fruits and berries |
carrots (red) | watermelon (feed, it has a lower sugar content) |
beet | an Apple |
cucumbers | pear |
zucchini | Strawberry |
squash | raspberry |
zucchini | kiwi |
pumpkin | banana |
cauliflower | figs |
broccoli | plums (prunes - not more than one fruit once a week) |
Brussels sprouts | apricots (dried apricots - in very limited quantities) |
kale | oranges |
kohlrabi | tangerines |
sour cabbage | |
green pea | |
radish | |
artichokes |
Green feed
Green food, along with roughage, is the main source of nutrition for all animals from the hare family in the conditions of their natural habitat. Therefore, if juicy foods in the diet of dwarf rabbits need to be extremely careful, then green, on the contrary, must be given priority.
Here are the options for green feed for decorative rabbits:
Meadow grass | Bean and grain shoots and leaves | Vegetable tops and other garden crops |
coltsfoot | peas | beet |
dandelion | beans | carrot |
alfalfa | corn | swede |
clover | oats | cabbage |
plantain | barley | Jerusalem artichoke |
nettle | wheat | black radish |
sow thistle | radish | |
sorrel | celery | |
rhubarb | spinach |
The ratio of these plant species in the composition of green feed is also of great importance. So, vegetable tops can be added to herbs in a ratio of no more than 1: 3, and legumes can be used in even smaller proportions (to avoid bloating and flatulence in dwarf rabbits).
Caution should be taken to such herbs that are familiar to our diet as cilantro, dill or parsley. They contain too many essential oils; for poor digestion of small pets, such substances are completely unsuitable.
Important! Some types of green food (for example, beet tops) can cause diarrhea in rabbits, so this food must be given in combination with plants that have a bonding effect. The “antidotes” include yarrow grass or oak leaves.
Concentrates and compound feed
In modern pet stores, the assortment contains a variety of ready-made food for rodents - chinchillas, guinea pigs, hamsters and decorative rabbits. All of them are divided into two main groups: grain mixtures and granular feed. It is extremely convenient to use such products for feeding a pet.
However, all owners of decorative rabbits should know that the assurances of manufacturers and sellers that concentrates and compound feeds are a perfectly balanced diet, specially designed for a healthy, active and, most importantly, long life of a rabbit, do not correspond to reality.
Important! The granules on sale are a mix of various kinds of plant waste of the lowest quality, richly enriched with artificial flavors, dyes, preservatives, cheap fats and sugar. For example, the substance included in the composition of such feeds and indicated by the beautiful word "molasses" is nothing more than waste from the production of sugar. Under the mysterious concept of “herbal products” usually hide the peel and cake that remain after the production of fruit juices, and “fruit oligosaccharides” are fast carbohydrates that are dangerous to the health of rabbits.
Since the owners of the pet do not expect weight gain, but a long and healthy life, you should think carefully before including high-calorie grain and pressed mixtures with dubious composition in its diet.
Important! Corn is actively used in rabbit farms as a great way to provide a very (unnatural!) Rapid mass gain by livestock. At the same time, cereal is added to the diet of rabbits about one and a half to two months before slaughter, not earlier, otherwise rapidly developing obesity will quickly lead to damage to the animal’s liver and its death.
What vitamins do rabbits need?
The composition, dosage, and also the consequences of vitamin deficiency and overdose for different representatives of the animal world can vary. Determining the diet of dwarf rabbits are:
- retinol and beta-carotene (vitamin A): normalize the nervous system, control reproductive functions, are necessary for good vision, provide cell division and renewal;
- thiamine (vitamin B1): guarantees good functioning of the cardiovascular and digestive systems, takes part in carbon metabolism;
- riboflavin (vitamin B2): provides a thick and shiny fur, is involved in various metabolic processes;
- pantothenic acid (vitamin B5): controls the functioning of the digestive system;
- pyridoxine (vitamin B6): participates in protein metabolism, provides the body with the production of many important enzymes;
- cobalamin (vitamin B12): provides the circulatory system (participates in the process of hematopoiesis), regulates the process of protein absorption;
- ascorbic acid (vitamin C): is responsible for the state of the immune system, has antioxidant properties, has a beneficial effect on the gastrointestinal tract;
- calciferol (vitamin D): participates in calcium-phosphorus metabolism, providing the animal with a strong skeleton;
- tocopherol (vitamin E): promotes the formation of muscle tissue, strengthens heart function, is responsible for the work of reproductive organs;
- phylloquinone (vitamin K): provides blood coagulation, participates in the formation and strengthening of bone tissue.
How to make a diet
If it is enough to feed a cat or dog twice a day, using natural meat or prepared dry food or canned food, then the diet of decorative rabbits is a whole science. All of the above components must be properly balanced and combined, and the nutrition of rabbits and adults has significant differences.
For rabbits
Proper feeding of young decorative rabbits suggests reasonableness and dosage. Until about four weeks of age, the rabbits eat exclusively breast milk, then hay and dry food begin to gradually be included in their diet. Not all owners are ready to refuse this type of food due to its obvious convenience and accessibility.
Important! The lifestyle of pets is radically different from their wild counterparts. The animal does not need to get its own food, to escape from the cold or predators, and, accordingly, its energy consumption is significantly reduced. If you allow the little rabbit to eat as much as he wants, the baby will be guided by instincts, and not by real needs (the result is obesity and health problems).
The approximate composition of the products that a dwarf rabbit should receive during the day at the age of 4-6 months looks, depending on the season, as follows:
Summer ration | Winter diet |
Green food - 400 g | Juicy food - 150-200 g |
Coarse feed - 40 g | Dry food (concentrate) - 55 g |
Hay - 150-200 g | Straw, hay - 75-100 g |
Mineral additives (salt and chalk) - 0.5 g |
The indicated parameters are very arbitrary, because, in addition to the age and individual characteristics of the individual, dwarf rabbits of different breeds can significantly differ from each other in size.
It is necessary to strive to ensure that the animal does not eat in accordance with a certain schedule, but at will. For this, hay and roughage must always be in the cage. As for greens and succulent feeds, it is better to give them as you eat, so as to prevent decomposition of products in the cell.
Did you know? The standards of the American Association of Rabbit Breeders are classified as dwarf (or Polish) rabbits of animals, the mass of which ranges from one and a half to three kilograms. However, a pygmy, or Aidah rabbit, considered the smallest breed of rabbit in the world, weighs only 250-450 grams.
For adults
Adults can be fed, guided by the following proportions:
Summer ration | Winter diet |
Green food - 800 g | Juicy food - 200-250 g |
Coarse feed (branches) - 80 g | Coarse feed (branches) - 55-70 g |
Hay - 150-200 g | Straw, hay - 150-200 g |
Mineral additives (salt and chalk) - 0.5 g |
It should be borne in mind that the ratio of different types of feed in the diet of pets is slightly different depending on the sex of the animal.
Type of feed | Rabbit (daily amount, in grams) | Rabbit (daily amount, in grams) |
Succulent feed | 120 | one hundred |
Green feed | 400 | 130 |
Concentrates | one hundred | one hundred |
Hay | one hundred | 40 |
It is recommended that rabbits be given wet food and greens in the daytime, confined to rough food and hay in the morning, and only hay should be left in the cage at night.
Feeding rabbits in winter
The peculiarities of winter feeding of decorative rabbits are connected with the fact that at this time vitamin-rich green food is much less available. As can be seen from the above tables, this deficiency can be partially compensated for by vegetables, fruits (both fresh and dried), as well as silage.
In the diet of pets in the cold season, you must additionally include baker's yeast and sprouted grains. A little sauerkraut also does not put as an excellent source of vitamin C.
Important! Oats can be planted directly in the pot. Emerging seedlings will make an excellent vitamin supplement to the diet of a dwarf rabbit. Rabbit breeders often talk about the need to increase the calorie content of the winter diet of animals compared to the summer, but this rule does not apply to pets spending the cold season in a heated room.
What the dwarf rabbit will eat in the winter should be taken care of in the summer, having prepared in advance those types of food that with the onset of cold weather will be able to provide the pet's body with all the nutrients, vitamins and minerals.
Forage harvesting
You can prepare for the winter both roughage and juicy. The most common winter harvesting method is hay. For these purposes, young grass must be mowed, because its digestive system in rabbits processes best. Drying is carried out in the open, in a slightly shaded place.
If for the owner of a rabbit farm, haymaking is an economically viable step, then it is much easier for the owners of one or even several pets to purchase finished goods in a pet store. In this case, even the modest volumes of the necessary product, not comparable with the physical costs and the quite affordable price of the goods in the store, are decisive.
Important! Properly dried fruits should bend, not break. All moisture contained in fresh fruits should not be completely evaporated.
Drying herbs can only be harvested in ecologically clean regions, which most residents of megalopolises can only dream of. Greens collected near an industrial zone or highway, provided as a treat to a rabbit in a fresh or dried form, can cost your beloved pet health and even life.
As a good preparation of roughage for the winter are needles of conifers, as well as branches that can be easily cut, going for a walk in the forest or relaxing in the country. Collecting this kind of material is best in mid-summer.
Наконец, совершенно особой формой заготовки сочного корма является силосование. Силос — это перемешанная и измельчённая масса, состоящая из плодов и ботвы различных сельскохозяйственных культур и трав, которая заготавливается на зиму путём сквашивания в специальных ёмкостях под прессом.
Вряд ли владелец крохотного карликового кролика станет лично заниматься производством такого продукта, но если есть возможность раздобыть этот вид корма, зимой питомец будет благодарен за подобное лакомство.
Find out if rabbits can be fed apples and other fruits.
Для силосования подходят далеко не все растения, поскольку некоторые из них в процессе брожения начинают выделять опасную для организма кроликов молочную кислоту и являются благоприятной питательной средой для развития различных патогенных грибов (например, плесени). Примеры того, какие растения и их части пригодны для силосования, а какие — нет, показаны в таблице:
Культуры, хорошо подходящие для силосования | Культуры, которые можно добавлять в силос малыми порциями | Культуры, которые не следует использовать для силосования |
кукуруза (стебли и початки) | соя | свёкла (ботва) |
огурец (плоды) | крапива | картофель (ботва) |
кабачки (плоды) | клевер | огурец (ботва) |
тыква (плоды) | рапс | арбуз (ботва) |
арбуз (плоды) | люцерна | |
дыня (плоды) | ||
горох (стебли) | ||
фасоль (стебли) | ||
подсолнух (в самом начале цветения) | ||
капуста | ||
картофель (клубни) | ||
сорго | ||
ячмень |
Storage
Владельцы частных домов, имеющих в своём распоряжении погреб, не должны испытывать трудностей с хранением запасов корма. Сено и высушенные фрукты можно хранить и дома, в месте, надёжно защищённом от сырости. Что касается веток деревьев, то их можно сберечь прямо в снегу (так они лучше сохранят свою структуру и аромат).
Чем запрещено кормить карликовых кроликов
Есть много продуктов, на которые пищеварительная система декоративных кроликов реагирует не очень хорошо (например, упомянутые выше злаки, животная пища). Однако некоторые виды пищи для декоративных кроликов противопоказаны категорически, и вот почему.
Did you know? Карликовые кролики в среднем живут пять-семь лет, что почти не отличается от других декоративных пород. В Книгу рекордов Гиннесса занесена особь, всего два месяца не дожившая до своего девятнадцатилетия.
Значительная часть из таких запрещённых продуктов многим владельцам кажется абсолютно безопасной. Более того, питомцы обожают подобные лакомства и жалобно их выпрашивают, так что следует быть очень осторожным, угощая животное чем-то новым.
Ни при каких обстоятельствах карликовые кролики не должны получать в пищу:
- орехи и арахис (эта пища слишком жирная для желудочно-кишечного тракта кролей);
- семечки подсолнуха (по той же причине, хотя тыквенные в небольших количествах допустимы);
- белокочанную и краснокочанную капусту (вздутие живота и метеоризм, которые возникают от употребления такого лакомства, могут привести к гибели питомца);
- картофель (как и кукуруза, этот богатый крахмалом продукт применяется для ускоренного набора массы кролей, готовящихся к убою, при этом поражая их печень и вызывая ожирение);
- onion and garlic;
- Tomatoes
- горох в стручках;
- сахар и любые сладости, включая мёд, халву;
- хлебобулочные изделия;
- chocolate;
- mushrooms;
- фруктовые косточки;
- мюсли (эти питательные смеси полностью состоят из ингредиентов, несовместимых со здоровым питанием кролика);
- морские водоросли;
- листья салата айсберг;
- некоторые травы (например, бегонию, чистотел, молочай, алоэ, горчицу, гвоздику, папоротник, подснежник, барвинок);
- некоторые фрукты и ягоды (например, волчья ягоду, инжир, авокадо).
Они не могут сами выбрать рацион и далеко не всегда знают, что им можно есть, а что — нельзя. Поэтому именно от мудрости и внимательности хозяина напрямую зависит, будет ли декоративный питомец активным и весёлым на протяжении шести-семи лет своей жизни (или ему суждено погибнуть гораздо раньше от кишечных расстройств, ожирения и других проблем, связанных с неправильным питанием).