Sankin's carrot variety love: characteristics and features of cultivation

Carrots are one of the few vegetables growing in the temperate climate zone that can be kept fresh until the future harvest, while almost not losing their useful qualities, which, given the high content of vitamins and other biologically active substances in these root crops, make them especially valuable during vitamin deficiency.

However, any gardener who is going to grow carrots in his own personal plot needs to know that not all varieties of this vegetable are equally well suited for long-term storage. For this purpose, only late-ripening fruits should be used, for example, the excellent super-yielding hybrid Sankin's love F1, which will be discussed in this review.

Did you know? Under the brand name “Sankina Love”, not only carrots are produced. There are also hybrids of cabbage, cucumbers and sweet peppers of the same name, and all of them, despite the lack of state registration, managed to earn rave reviews from farmers.

Variety selection history

Sankin's love carrot F1 was bred by the breeders of the well-known Moscow agricultural firm “Ural summer resident”, which has been actively engaged in the production of seeds and seedlings for over 80 years, which are distinguished by increased endurance and intended, in particular, for growing risky agriculture in the regions, including the Urals and Siberia.

Since the Sankin hybrid of love is not included in the register of selection achievements of the Russian Federation, there is no official information on its zoning zone.

However, taking into account the specialization of the producer and relying on the numerous reviews of gardeners, it can be argued that this carrot can be grown with equal success both throughout the middle part of the European part of Russia, including the Central, Central Black Earth, Middle Volga and North Caucasus economic regions, and colder areas of the Volga-Vyatka, North-West, as well as the Ural, West Siberian, East Siberian and Far Eastern regions, where for protection against cold weather a hybrid, if necessary, cover they whine with a film.

Also pay attention to such late carrot varieties as the Autumn King and Queen of the Autumn.

Sankin’s love is growing beautifully in Ukraine, Moldova, and other countries neighboring with Russia.

Description of root crops

Sankin's love is distinguished by the elongated cylindrical shape of root crops with a blunt tip.

Average carrot sizes:

  • length - from 20 to 25 cm;
  • width - from 2.5 to 3.5 cm;
  • weight - from 85 to 120 g.

By type, this hybrid is closest to Nantes, because, in addition to its characteristic form, it has a crunchy, juicy, tender and very sweet flesh inherent in this group, which children adore.

The core of the fruit is not expressed, the skin is thin, the color of the flesh is solid, saturated, red-orange. The taste characteristics of carrots are beyond praise, for which the hybrid consistently receives the highest tasting score.

An additional advantage is the very high content of carotene in the fruits, which is why they are recommended for the preparation of baby and diet food, and for this purpose they can be used both fresh and processed.

The purpose of the fruit is universal. The hybrid is suitable for making juices and mashed potatoes, boiling and baking, but without heat treatment, this carrot is very good.

Grade characteristics

In terms of Sankin's maturation, love F1 is classified as late-ripening. Root crops begin to reach biological ripeness approximately in 120–135 days from the moment of mass germination.

Did you know? Parthia Tsar Mithridates IV, who ruled in the 1st century of the new era and was known for constant wars with Rome and at the same time with his brother Vologes II, who was the ruler of the same state, but its eastern part, had every reason to be afraid of poisoning, but he believed that it would neutralize poison can be with ... carrots.

The creator of the hybrid characterizes it as super-yielding, and one of the main qualities of this carrot is that its productivity is ensured even on heavy soil, where the vast majority of varieties of this crop grow very poorly.

Frost resistance and resistance to adverse weather conditions make it possible to grow Sankin's love almost everywhere, without making great efforts: carrots are not prone to cracking, flowering and shooting, rarely get sick and are slightly affected by pests, give minimal losses during the collection process (do not crack and do not break) ), finally, like all late-ripening varieties, it has excellent keeping quality, without losing, at the same time, either its presentation, taste, or useful properties.

Advantages and disadvantages

Assessing the Sankin hybrid love, gardeners almost unanimously come to the conclusion that this carrot consists of virtues alone.

  • Indeed, the hybrid is distinguished by:
  • ultra high productivity;
  • excellent taste characteristics;
  • rich chemical composition with a very high content of sugar and carotene;
  • universal purpose and the possibility of inclusion in children's and medical diets;
  • unpretentiousness to the composition of the soil;
  • large root vegetables of the correct form and the same size;
  • frost resistance;
  • lack of tendency to shoot, flaccidity, cracking;
  • low losses during harvesting;
  • good transportability;
  • very long shelf life.

The hybrid has no objective flaws. We can talk about the fact that carrots ripen for a long time, however, it is this quality that provides root crops with good keeping quality. In addition, any gardener should understand that high-yielding varieties and hybrids usually have higher requirements for the presence in the soil of all the nutrients necessary for their development and the observance of other agrotechnical conditions, without which you cannot count on the opportunity to enjoy all the above advantages.

Check out the seed descriptions for the best carrots.

Features of cultivation and care

Carrots, in general, are unpretentious culture, but not everyone succeeds in growing a good crop in their beds. The reason is that this vegetable needs very specific conditions, which must be created already at the stage of choosing a suitable place for it on the site, as well as observing the timing and technology of the planting itself.

Soil requirements

As it was said, Sankin's love can grow and even bear fruit well on hard soil, however, this does not mean at all that this type of soil for the hybrid is preferred.

However, if the soil in the plot is black earth, it is not necessary to adjust its composition before planting carrots, but it is better to add a mixture of peat and sand (at least 10 l per 1 sq. M) to clay soil. On peat soil, provided there are no signs of waterlogging, Sankin's love can be grown quite successfully if sand is added to the substrate before planting.

Important! The ideal soil for Sankin's hybrid love is sandy loam or loam. On this soil, carrots grow larger, sweeter and more juicy than on chernozem.

Carrots need soil rich in organic matter (the minimum humus content required by the culture is 4%). However, planting fresh organic fertilizers, especially manure, is strictly prohibited: in such soil, carrots will grow clumsy or “horned”. Therefore, this type of fertilizing should be laid in the ground, at least a year before planting.

Another condition when choosing a place for a bed is good drainage and the complete absence of the risk of stagnation of water (under such conditions, root crops grow very small, crack or simply rot). The optimum acidity of the soil is from 5.7 to 6.9 (neutral or slightly acidic reaction).

Another important condition is lighting. Carrots are one of the most photophilous cultures that are grown in our latitudes, so it is necessary to highlight the most open and sunny area for it.

The high need of the hybrid for moisture and, at the same time, its complete rejection of stagnation of water in the soil, determines the following requirement for the bed - it must be as even as possible so that the water is evenly distributed over it during rainfall and irrigation.

Did you know? Regular consumption of carrots is believed to reduce the likelihood of developing lung cancer, but this rule is only valid for those who do not smoke. Surprisingly, for smokers it has the exact opposite effect.

The site for growing Sankina love needs to be selected taking into account the standard crop rotation rules, since in a place where carrots and other crops related to it (according to soil composition requirements and the most characteristic pests) used to grow, the hybrid will never give a good crop.

Good precursors for carrots are:Sankin's love should not be planted after:
  • siderates
  • tomatoes
  • corn
  • bean
  • potatoes
  • onion
  • cabbage
  • cucumbers
  • fennel
  • parsley
  • dill
  • tarhuna
  • zucchini
  • celery
  • sorrel
  • caraway seeds
  • cilantro
  • parsnip
  • carrots

Sowing rules

Traditionally, Sankin love carrots are planted in the spring. However, rational gardeners sometimes apply the winter method of sowing to this hybrid (in late October or early November). This allows you to get an earlier crop of root crops, which are used for immediate consumption, and under the bookmark for the winter, the usual, spring, method of planting is used.

As for the timing of sowing seeds, then, strictly according to the rules, for this you need to wait for steady heat. In the Central region of Russia, the right moment comes at the end of April, in the more northern regions one should wait another 1.5–2 weeks, while southerners can carry out the procedure at the end of March. The main thing is that the soil in the upper layer warms up to at least + 6 ... + 7 ° C, and the night frosts are left behind.

Regarding the pre-sowing preparation of seeds of the Sankin hybrid, the love situation is ambiguous. Many experts note that preliminary soaking, dressing and stimulation does not have a decisive influence on the speed and intensity of germination, therefore, it is advised to limit oneself only to a preliminary check of the quality of the seed material by planting several experimental specimens of the house in a separate cup.

Important! Both in winter and in early spring sowing, only dry seeds are laid in the ground. Soak them only if planting is carried out in well-warmed soil.

Another important precaution: seed disinfection by soaking them in potassium permanganate, boric acid and other similar preparations is carried out only after preliminary soaking, since aggressive solutions can destroy dry seeds.

Before sowing, the bed should be dug up, and if it was prepared in the fall, just loosen it. Next, mark up future rows. The easiest way to do this is with wooden pegs driven in on both sides of the row and, if necessary, additionally in the center. The row spacing for the Sankin hybrid should be about 20 cm. Then, grooves with a depth of not more than 1.5–2 cm are dug out along the outlined rows and watered with plenty of water.

When the water is absorbed, the layout of the seeds is carried out and their subsequent cover with earth. Sometimes carrot seeds are planted by the tape method. It consists in the fact that dry seeds are pre-glued with a stick of brewed starch onto toilet paper at a distance of 4 cm from each other, which allows you to immediately control the number of seeds in the rows and significantly save their number, due to the absence of the need for intensive thinning in the future .

The paper tape, along with the seeds, is laid on the bottom of the furrow and covered with earth, as in the usual planting method. This method is quite time-consuming, but still very convenient, but it also has its drawbacks: with poor germination, the garden bed may turn out to be too rare, and the gardener will not receive the expected carrot yield.

Important! After digging the furrow, the bed should not be watered, since this leads to uncontrolled and uneven penetration of seeds into the soil, which significantly slows down the germination process and negatively affects the overall germination rates.

The first shoots of carrots appear no earlier than 2-3 weeks after planting. This process can be slightly accelerated by covering the garden bed with a film or a light agrotechnical canvas to create a greenhouse effect. Immediately after the emergence of the shoots, the shelter must be removed.


Sankin's love is a hygrophilous hybrid. It is necessary to water the bed regularly and abundantly, trying to ensure uniform soil moisture and at the same time to prevent stagnation of water in it. With great gratitude, carrots also respond to sprinkling, as for the “lower” watering (under the root), it is better to carry out it not with a watering can or directly from the hose, but with the drip irrigation method - it is enough to turn it on every 2-3 days, which will significantly reduce water consumption and prevent both overdrying and root decay.

The intensity of watering at different periods of the growing season of carrots varies. So, if at the initial stages the culture needs frequent, but dosed hydration, then as the root crops form, the intervals between irrigation are reduced, and the amount of water that is used, on the contrary, is increased so that the earth is saturated with moisture to a depth of at least 15 cm

Important! You can not pour carrots with cold or hard water: if tap water is used for irrigation, it must first be kept for several hours in the sun so that it settles and warms up.

To improve taste, increase sweetness and extend the shelf life of fruits about 30 days before harvesting, watering is stopped completely, only slightly spraying the top layer of soil immediately before harvesting, so that it is easier to remove carrots from the ground.

As a hint, you can use the following water consumption rates when watering the Sankin hybrid love at different phases of the growing season, however, you need to understand that we are talking about averaged indicators that are adjusted depending on specific climatic and weather conditions:

Watering period and methodWater consumption per 1 m2 of beds, l (in parentheses are the consumption rates when using drip irrigation)Watering frequency
May4–5 (2–3)Every 3-4 days
May (sprinkling)35–401-2 times a week
June10–12 (4–5)Every 5-7 days
July12–15 (5–6)1-2 times a week
August5–6 (2.5–3.5)1-2 times a month

Top dressing

With top dressing carrot beds you need to be extremely careful. During the growing season, organics cannot be added to this crop at all, and the main focus of mineral fertilizers is on the potassium and phosphorus components, since root crops tend to accumulate nitrates, so a large amount of nitrogen in the soil negatively affects the quality of the crop.

The fertilizer application for growing Sankin hybrid love may look like this:

A drugApplication TimeMode of application
NitrophoskaThree times - a month after emergence, 2 weeks after the first feeding and from 1 to 10 AugustWatering with a solution prepared in a concentration of 1 tbsp. drug per 10 liters of water
Wood ash2.5-3.5 months after emergenceWatering with a solution prepared in a concentration of 15 g of dry matter per 10 l of water
Boric acid2.5-3.5 months after emergenceFoliar top dressing (spraying) with a solution prepared in a concentration of 1 tsp drug per 10 liters of water

When preparing top dressing based on wood ash, you can add a few drops of potassium permanganate to the working fluid. This precaution provides additional protection for root crops from fungal infections and soil pests.

Experts recommend not abusing wood ash as a fertilizer for carrots and use it no more than once every 2-3 years.

Important! An excess of organic and mineral fertilizers in the soil attracts a carrot fly to the bed, and the root crops themselves are deformed.


Weeds are a real disaster for carrots. The main reason is that the culture grows very slowly, and the "extraneous" grass in the garden is fast. Weeds should not be removed from the garden before the first sprouts of carrots appear on it, since such actions can damage young shoots that are not yet visible to the eye. But as soon as the "cultivated" shoot forms the first true leaf (10-15 days after germination), thorough weeding of the garden should be carried out.

The next time the procedure is repeated in the phase of the second real leaflet, combining it with thinning - another necessary event for growing carrots. As a result of the manipulation between each two neighboring seedlings, a distance of at least 2–2.5 cm should be provided.

Important! Love reacts even more painfully to the Sankin weeds than to bad predecessors.

In the process of thinning, it is very important to observe the technology for extracting extra sprouts from the ground: the movement should not be directed upward, but to the side, thus ensuring the integrity of the root system of the specimens left on the bed. While the seedlings are small, thinning them out can be quite difficult.

Experienced gardeners recommend doing this not with your hands, but with tweezers. In this case, it is much easier to capture each selected sprout without disturbing the neighbors. Спустя месяц после первого прореживания процедуру нужно повторить, удалив, при этом, не менее половины сеянцев и удвоив, таким образом, расстояние между будущими кустами.

Жалеть культуру не следует: без достаточного количества свободного пространства вырастить хорошую морковь невозможно, к тому же на этом этапе у растения уже формируются небольшие корнеплоды, и их вполне можно использовать в пищу.

Did you know? Морковную ботву выбрасывать не следует, ведь существует множество способов использовать её полезные свойства и аромат. Например, добавив такой ингредиент в банку при мариновании томатов, можно невероятно обогатить вкус готового блюда, кроме того, из «вершков» моркови заваривают витаминный чай и даже готовят ополаскиватель для волос, от чего они становятся крепче и лучше растут.

Профилактика и лечение болезней и вредителей

Морковь — культура сочная и сладкая, к тому же наиболее ценная её часть находится под землёй, где различные патогенные микроорганизмы и насекомые, поражающие растение, остаются невидимыми. Оба эти обстоятельства значительно усложняют задачу огороднику, пытающемуся спасти урожай от различного рода вредителей, однако терять бдительность ни в коем случае нельзя.

Среди болезней и вредителей, способных причинить значительный ущерб гибриду Санькина любовь, следует назвать:

Основные болезни морковиВредители, паразитирующие на моркови
  • склеротиниоз (белая гниль);
  • ризоктониоз (чёрная парша);
  • brown spotting;
  • фомоз (сухая гниль);
  • ботридиоз (серая гниль);
  • альтернариоз (чёрная гниль);
  • батериоз (мокрая гниль);
  • церкоспороз (пятнистость листьев);
  • powdery mildew
  • carrot fly;
  • carrot leaf;
  • зонтичная (морковная) моль;
  • wireworm;
  • gall nematode;
  • восклицательная совка;
  • slugs;
  • морковная и ивово-морковная тля;
  • медведка

Бороться с вредителями следует при помощи инсектицидных препаратов, таких, например, как:

  • «Фас»;
  • «АТО ЖУК»;
  • «Антихрущ»;
  • "Provotox";
  • Bazudin
  • «Мухоед»;
  • «Безар»;
  • Kinmix
  • «Инта-Вир» и другие.

Important! Лучшей профилактикой болезней и вредителей на моркови является строгое соблюдение агротехники её выращивание — нормированный полив, дренирование почвы, недопущение переизбытка органических и азотных удобрений, в частности, из-за внесения их в период вегетации, а не заблаговременно.

Борьба с грибковыми инфекциями традиционно ведётся фунгицидными препаратами, но если заболевание выявлено на ранней стадии, лучше всего использовать биологические средства. Они не токсичны, не опасны для пчёл, не меняют состав почвы и безопасны для окружающей среды. Наиболее известными в этой категории являются препараты «Фитоспорин М», «Фитодоктор», «Гаупсин», «Триходермин», «Микосан» и др.

Harvesting and storage of crops

Урожай гибрида Санькина любовь можно сохранить до следующей весны и даже лета. Однако для этого его нужно правильно собрать и заготовить. Извлекать морковь из земли следует строго тогда, когда она созрела — не раньше и не позже.

В помощь огороднику должна служить информация о гибриде, приведённая его производителем: проверять степень готовности корнеплодов следует начинать спустя 4 месяца (120 дней) с момента появления дружных всходов. О том, что корнеплод созрел, свидетельствует появление на его носике многочисленных белых корешков и лёгкое пожелтение наружных листьев на розетке.

Если светлой и мягкой стала сама морковь, это означает, что она поражена болезнью, к степени спелости такой показатель отношения не имеет. При сборе урожая подобные экземпляры следует отбраковывать, поскольку для хранения они не подходят, кроме того, могут заразить и здоровые корнеплоды.

Сбор урожая лучше всего постараться закончить к середине сентября, до наступления сезона дождей. Как только температура ночью начинает опускаться ниже +5…+7° С, нужно торопиться. Копать морковь лучше всего лопатой, а не вилами.

Important! Одна из самых распространённых причин быстрой порчи внешне-безупречной моркови поздних сортов — это сбор урожая в холодный дождливый день, либо из увлажнённой от предварительного полива, почве.

Выдёргивать корнеплоды из земли руками ни в коем случае нельзя, поскольку из-за удлинённой формы вероятность повреждения (обламывания) очень велика. При любых нарушениях целостности моркови для хранения она не годится.

После извлечения плодов из земли, их нужно осторожно очистить от остатков грунта и обрезать ботву на высоте 2 см от основания. После этого, проводят тщательную сортировку, отбирая для закладки на хранение только полностью здоровые и целые овощи с плотной структурой.

Следующий важный этап — просушка. Предназначенную для длительного хранения морковь нужно поместить в тёмное сухое место на 24 часа, желательно разложив корнеплоды таким образом, чтобы они не касались друг друга.

После того как все подготовительные работы проведены, можно приступать к фасовке и укладке урожая на постоянное место хранения. Лучше всего для этих целей подойдут деревянные ящики, куда корнеплоды укладываются слоями и пересыпаются толстым слоем песка (2–3 см).

Для дополнительной дезинфекции песок можно смешать с толчёным мелом. Хранить морковь желательно в погребе, при температуре +2…+4 ºС с влажностью воздуха до 98%, периодически инспектируя и отбирая экземпляры с малейшими признаками порчи.

Читайте также об особенностях хранения моркови зимой в погребе.

Санькина любовь F1 — великолепный выбор высококачественной моркови для долгого хранения. Эти корнеплоды обладают прекрасными вкусовыми характеристиками и хорошими товарными качествами, кроме того, гибрид демонстрирует завидную урожайность даже в том случае, когда выращивается на почвах, для моркови не очень подходящих.

Зимостойкость семян и их прекрасная всхожесть позволяют огороднику, грамотно сочетая озимые и весенние сроки посадки, при желании, превращать позднеспелые корнеплоды в ранние, обеспечивая себя, таким образом, запасом витаминов на весь сезон.

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