Rules for replacing currants in spring

From time to time, the gardener needs to transplant a currant bush. The reasons are different: diseases of the bushes, the desire to improve the placement of plants on the site. Therefore, it is important to know a number of simple rules on how to transplant bushes and how to properly care for them then. About the rules of transplantation and the main mistakes made by beginning gardeners, read on in the article.

Is it possible to transplant currants in spring

Spring is the best time for transplanting. First of all, because the bush must take root and adapt to new growth conditions. And this process is all the more painful, the older the bush that is transplanted.

In the winter hardiness zones from the 6th to the 4th landing work is carried out only in the spring. In winter, the thermometer in these regions can drop to -17 ° C and -35 ° C, respectively, and this can be critical for a plant with an undeveloped root system. Planting in autumn is possible only in the southern regions, where it is never colder than -12 ° C in winter.

When to transplant, in which month

After the bush yields, its shoots undergo some changes. They begin to prepare for a state of rest: they stop growing, they lay the fruit buds of the next season. You can transplant the bush at this time or postpone planting in the spring. The branches of the plant may be exposed to cool frosts, but the roots will be in comfortable conditions and they do not need to actively “work” to support the growing season of the crown.

Did you know? The chemical composition of currant berries is different. So, black nutritionists recommend for children, and red - for adults.

April

April is the wrong time for a transplant for several reasons. A transplant is a shock for a plant, and it will take time to “get sick”. In April, the plant began active growth and growth of shoots, and this creates a double burden on it.

May

May is no less a bad month. It would be better to postpone the transplant until September or until next March. But if you are planning a move and do not want to part with your favorite variety, it is important to carry out the process correctly.

Is it possible to transplant currants already with leaves

A currant bush that has already blossomed leaves is harder to transplant. However, if you follow some rules, the process can be successful. Basic rules for spring transplant:

  1. If you know in advance that the plant will have a transplant, then you need to trim the bush as much as possible: remove the old branches, that is, those that are more than 5 years old, then cut off all the weak shoots, shorten the remaining 1/3.
  2. Pruning is carried out a few weeks before transplantation.
  3. The root system of the bush is equal to the diameter of the crown, so you need to pick up a fairly large new site.
  4. If you did not have the opportunity to prepare the plant in advance, then do it now, conducting all types of pruning with a sterile secateurs, so as not to infect the bush with spores of pathogenic fungi.
  5. The air temperature on the day of transplantation should not exceed + 15 ° C, the bush does not tolerate heat.
  6. Dig it around the perimeter and remove it with a large lump of soil.
  7. Place the shovel bayonet at an angle to pry and raise the roots without damaging them.
  8. Do not remove the ground on the roots so as not to damage them.
  9. After transplanting, irrigate regularly every 2-3 days to help the currant adapt.

Causes of Currant Transplantation

The reasons for the transplant can be either planned or sudden, arising from environmental changes. So, raising groundwater is an important factor requiring an immediate response. The roots will not be able to get nutrients from the soil due to water, and the bush may die. The same force majeure will be a viral infection of a part of the plantation. In this situation, healthy plants are transplanted to avoid infection.

Video: Currant transplant

A planned transplant is performed with the aim of:

  • bush rejuvenation;
  • with suspected disease of the root system. In this case, the bush is dug up, examined, damaged roots are removed and planted on a new site;
  • the size of the plant began to interfere with neighboring shrubs or beds;
  • redevelopment of the site.
Important! Fruiting of red currants occurs in the upper part of the shoots. Therefore, shortening them during transplantation, you can get a crop only on the branches of new growth that appear on it.

Preparatory stages

If you can wait until early spring - this will be the perfect time for planting. Before embarking on it, you will need:

  • choose a plot according to the type of currant;
  • check the soil acidity level and, if necessary, add dolomite flour for deoxidation;
  • look at the plants around, if they are poorly developed and poorly bear fruit, then prepare organic fertilizers to make them when planting;
  • prepare the mulching material. Currant grows well if the roots are cool, and mulch will help protect the soil from overheating: straw, wood chips, etc.

Search and select a new place

Avoid places with poor air circulation. This increases the chance of becoming infected with powdery mildew. Also avoid light, sandy soils. The best choice is well-drained, organically rich, moist soil. But currants are quite loyal to the composition of the soil. It can grow on loam, alumina and any other type of soil. The level of acidity is slightly acidic or neutral.

The site should be smooth, otherwise the water will begin to drain, and the bush will receive moisture and nutrients unevenly. Do not choose the lowlands, cold air stagnates there, which will slow down the development of the plant.

Pay attention to information where it is better to plant currants - in the shade or in the sun. As for lighting, a black or partially shaded area is suitable for black currants. But red is needed only one where the sun will be present for at least 6-7 hours a day. Protecting the northern slopes from direct sunlight will be a good place to grow.

If the summer is very hot in your area, then select a site that is brightly lit by the morning sun and shaded in the afternoon. Landing along the side of the building or a shady arbor is also quite possible.

Bush preparation

Check the roots for areas with damage: rot, dead roots. Trim them to a healthy area. Do not leave rot, as it will spread further. Pay attention to the information what should be the distance between the currant bushes when planting.

Soil preparation and planting pit

Prepare a landing pit large enough to conveniently place the root system along with the soil that is on the roots. If the land on the site is not rich in organic matter, find the opportunity to add 1 bucket of humus or compost under each bush by mixing it with soil.

How to transplant currants in a new place in spring

Dig the soil to a depth of 40 cm. Prepare a planting pit sufficient to accommodate the root system of an adult bush: up to 1 m in width and about 60 cm in depth. The soil removed from the pit is mixed with organic fertilizers.

If there are several bushes, then the landing pits should be at a distance of about 1.5 m from each other. When planting against a wall or fence, the distance between the bush and the object should be at least 50 cm.

Adult bush

Planting patterns of red and black currants have a number of differences:

  1. For red pit, a drainage layer is laid at the bottom of the pit. Thickness - up to 10 cm. Black is not necessary.
  2. Then, soil mixed with organic fertilizers is poured on the bottom of the hill.
  3. Mount the bush on this hill so that it is oriented towards the cardinal points in the same way as in the previous place.
  4. Black currants need to be deepened into the soil by 5 cm. Red is not necessary.
  5. The bush is not installed directly, but slightly tilted. This makes it more stable with strong gusts of wind or snowfall.
  6. The pit is covered with soil. Having reached half, pour plenty of water. Then fill up the rest.
  7. Place a mulch layer in the near-stem zone.

Transplanting seedlings in open ground

Planting seedlings occurs in the same way as adult bushes. The only difference is the preparation of the bush for planting. Damaged roots and “extra” branches are pruned to an adult plant.

The root system of the seedling must be healthy. If it was grown in a container, then it is planted together with the soil in which it grew. A plant with open roots is soaked for 1 hour in water, then treated for several hours in a growth stimulator. For this, Zircon, Epin-Extra, Radifarm, and Kornevin preparations are suitable. Follow the processing time indicated in the instructions for the drug.

There are only 2 differences in the instructions for planting seedlings:

  1. Prepare pits 50 × 50 × 40 cm in size.
  2. Mix the removed soil with fertilizers. Under 1 bush, 4 kg of compost is enough.

Otherwise, the planting pattern will be the same as that of an adult plant. Be sure to irrigate regularly so that the soil does not dry out. Monthly feed with an ash solution - 100 g of ash per 1 liter of water.

When in spring you can transplant currants in the suburbs

In the suburbs, currants are transplanted in late March or early April. It is important that the air temperature is stable plus - from + 5 ° С to + 10 ° С. This is the best temperature for the active development of the root system.

You may be interested to read about how to plant blackcurrant in the suburbs.

Main mistakes

In order not to repeat the above rules, let's only note the typical mistakes of beginning gardeners:

  1. If the bush required the presence of a pollinator plant nearby, then you need to plant 2 bushes in a new place, otherwise you will be left without a crop.
  2. Different requirements for growing red and black currants are not taken into account. Remember that they need different lighting and there are significant differences in the planting process.
  3. The gardener forgets that you need to water the transplanted bushes often, and drought is very harmful to them.
  4. They do not take into account that top dressing is done not according to the schedule, but according to needs. If the bush is developing intensively, it does not need to be fertilized. But if the shoots are thin and the growth is weak - add 30 g of ammonium nitrate during the period of active development and 40 g of superphosphate together with 30 g of potassium chloride per 1 sq. m in the fall after harvest.
  5. Be sure to use mulch. It prevents weed growth and soil compaction, as well as root overheating and rapid moisture evaporation. In addition, organic mulch, decaying, becomes a fertilizer for currants.
  6. Also remember that no matter how sorry you were to cut the branches, this is necessary to give the plant the opportunity to take root in a new place.

For any bush, transplanting is stressful. Care should be taken to help him transfer this and take root in a new site. Do not forget about watering, fertilizers and pest control, and then currants will delight you with the harvest next year.

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