Paratunka cucumbers f1: variety description, cultivation and care features

A feature of early ripe cucumbers is the lack of bitterness in taste. Among the popular hybrids of this category, many vegetable growers prefer the Paratunka f1 variety, which is suitable for homestead and industrial cultivation. Its crop can be obtained on the open ground and in greenhouse conditions. What to do for a successful cultivation of culture, learn further from the article.

Grade description

For the first time, they started talking about Paratunka on the seed market in 2006, when the variety bred by the founder of the Semko-Junior agricultural company, Yuri Alekseev, was included in the State Register of Selection Achievements of the Russian Federation and allowed for cultivation in the North, North-West, Volga-Vyatka, Central, Middle Volga, North Caucasian and Central Black Earth regions of the country.

Did you know? In Iran, cucumbers are considered fruits, and therefore there is a tradition in the country to serve these fruits with sweets.

The hybrid does not require pollination, since it is characterized by flowering of a female type, that is, it is parthenocarpic. It is characterized by early maturity and high productivity, as well as undemanding to growing conditions and quick adaptation to climate change.

Cucumber bush is characterized by medium height and branching. Its central shoots are not limited to flower tassels. The foliage is bright green, medium in size. Fruits are cylindrical, medium tuberous with weak ribbing and a short neck.

The average length of cucumbers is about 9 cm, diameter - about 3 cm, weight - not more than 100 g. Vegetable pulp is not hollow, characterized by a specific aroma and crunch, it tastes pleasantly sweet. The skin of Zelentsy is delicate dark green with medium hairiness and sharp light tubercles.

The fruits are suitable for consumption in a fresh, canned form, as well as for pickles and pickling.

When grown, the variety painlessly tolerates a sharp change in temperature, practically insensitive to powdery mildew, brown spotting and bacteriosis. Seeds give good germination, regardless of the structure of the substrate.

Parthenocarpic varieties also include Real Colonel, Emerald Stream, Courage, Zyatek f1, Pasalimo f1.

Advantages and disadvantages

  • The hybrid is in great demand, due to its advantages:
  • early maturity (the first crop can be harvested 40–45 days after planting);
  • prolonged continuous bearing (Zelentsy ripen until the first frost);
  • good quality, versatility and transportability of fruits;
  • undemanding to the conditions and place of cultivation (cucumbers can be sown both in the greenhouse and in the open ground);
  • self-fertility (female-type flowers form an ovary without pollinators);
  • satisfactory resistance of the variety to common diseases;
  • high yields.

Judging by the reviews of vegetable growers regarding the cultivation of the crop, the quantity and quality of its harvest, Paratunka f1 has no shortcomings.

However, consumers expressed their wishes for lower prices for planting material.

Important! Cucumbers painfully endure drafts and cold. Therefore, when growing them in the seedling method, it is better to place the container with sowing on the windowsill on a foam base, and cover the seedlings planted at a constant place with polyethylene in case of temperature drop.


It is common for a hybrid to form 2-3 ovaries in each sinus. Under favorable temperature and humidity conditions for cultivating varieties, up to 16 kg of crop can be harvested from each square meter of the field. In cold regions, this figure will reach 11 kg.

For good fruiting, experts advise to observe the density of planting, focusing on 3-4 plants per 1 m².

Optimal landing times

Given the endurance of Paratunka, many vegetable growers practice a seedling and seedling method of growing it, but it is important to sow seeds in a timely manner. What are the advantages and disadvantages of each technologist and what terms are recommended for planting, find out from the table below.

Seedling methodReckless way
Advantagesultra early harvesthealthy, stronger, not elongated plants;

reduction of labor costs and time

disadvantagesweakened plants;

increased risk of morbidity;

the possibility of damage to the root system during transplantation;

in case of poor lighting, the elongation of the stems

yield reduction due to late fruiting
Recommended sowing datesthe beginning of Junesecond decade of May

Ways to plant cucumbers

The Paratunka hybrid differs from other parthenocarpic varieties with an underdeveloped root system and too long lashes. These features are important to consider when planting crops.

Important! The presence of empty flowers on a cucumber bed indicates an illiterate planting plan .

Seedling method

Growing cucumbers in a greenhouse or under a film cover requires the preliminary preparation of planting material, substrate and appropriate containers. Even minor errors at each stage are fraught with a decrease in yield and quality of fruits.

Soil requirements and tank sizes

With seedling technology, cucumber seeds should be sown in peat pots of 10 × 10 cm in size. This will allow the hybrid root system to fully develop and protect it from possible damage during transplantation. These tanks are also beneficial in that they do not require diving of grown seedlings.

Variety Paratunka f1 can adapt to any soil, but copious fruiting is possible provided the nutrient mixture.

Therefore, vegetable growers are advised to cook it from:

  • high peat (2 hours);
  • mature compost, as an alternative, vermicompost is suitable (2 hours);
  • humus (2 hours);
  • river sand (1 hour);
  • sawdust (1 h.).

After mixing all of the listed ingredients, for each bucket of soil mix you will need to add:

  • urea (1 tsp);
  • superphosphate (1 tsp);
  • potassium sulfate (1 tsp);
  • wood ash (1 cup).

Did you know? Cucumber, whose homeland is India, exists for about 6 thousand years.

Seed preparation

The rules of agricultural techniques for growing cucumbers in seedlings at the stage of seed preparation include the following:

  1. Calibration - the procedure consists in culling empty and unsuitable for sowing specimens. You can understand their quality by pouring grains with salt water. The solution is prepared in a proportion of 1 tbsp. l per 200 ml of water. Poor material rises to the surface and is eliminated by draining the liquid.
  2. Soaking - carried out in warm water with the addition of any growth stimulant ("Emistim", "Kornevin", "Ecosil", "Acrobat MC"). To improve germination, planting material should be in solution for at least 2-3 hours. If desired, the procedure can be carried out using folk remedies, preparing a nutrient liquid from 1 liter of warm water, as well as equal parts of wood ash and nitroammophos.

Seed sowing technology

Cucumber seedlings at home are grown according to the instructions below:

  1. Put drainage (preferably made of expanded clay) in the prepared containers at the bottom and fill them with 2/3 of the substrate.
  2. Place the pots in a wide pan on the windowsill of the southern orientation and pour plenty of warm, settled water. After excess moisture seeps through the drainage holes, allow the soil some time to mature. Readiness comes when the earthen ball becomes crumbly and does not stick together.
  3. Inside each container in the middle 2 cucumber seeds are placed, slightly deepening them by 1.5 cm. This is done to secure germination. If you are confident in the quality of the seed, you can sow 1 copy of Paratunka.
  4. Then sprinkle inoculation with a layer of wet river sand or with the used soil mixture and compact the soil with your palms.
  5. Using a spray gun, moisten the contents of the landing container, then cover with plastic wrap or glass and leave it in a warm place.

Important! If it is necessary to disinfect cucumber seeds, in case of using potassium permanganate, do not overexpose them in the solution. 15–20 minutes are enough for disinfection. Longer soaking is fraught with deterioration of germination .

Seedling Care

It is advisable to leave containers with cucumber grains in a pan. Before emergence, they must be in a room with a stable temperature regime of + 26 ... + 28 ° С. At this stage, radical watering is contraindicated. All moisturizing procedures are carried out exclusively by spray using water at room temperature.

It is important to open the pots daily for ventilation.

In the future, when the seeds germinate, it is recommended to move the pallet to a sunny, but shaded, windowsill on the south side of the house. All cucumbers love warmth and light, but in the sun they, having received burns, will cease to develop. Therefore, it is important to create in your "bed" the conditions of abundant scattered light by natural or piece lighting.

To exclude stretching and brittleness of the sprouts, you need to provide them with a 16-hour light day.

The room where the seedlings are located should be dry and warm. Optimum thermometer values ​​in the range + 23 ... + 25 ° С during the day and + 19 ... + 20 ° С at night. A few weeks after emergence, a gradual decrease in temperature is shown for the purpose of hardening.

Furthermore, the permissible minimum values ​​are + 16 ° С. Please note that sharp temperature differences, like drafts, will reduce the activity of stem growth.

The soil in the pots should never dry out, so it makes sense to water the seedlings daily in small portions of the settled warm water. With excessive waterlogging, a break is indicated.

In order to strengthen cucumber seedlings and abundant future fruiting, it is advisable to carry out 2 dressings until the stems are transplanted to a permanent place. Both of them are carried out using urea or chicken droppings with an interval of 2-3 weeks. If desired, the "bed" can be fertilized with the drug "Effekton", protecting the foliage from liquid.

Important! If the leaves turn yellow on the cucumbers - nitrogen will help, if the biomass looks pale - iron is required, and with elongated stems superphosphate will not interfere .

Paratunka, like other hybrids, does not like the cold. Therefore, seedlings need to be prepared in advance for transplanting to a permanent place. To do this, you need to start hardening a few weeks before the transplant. The procedure consists in a smooth change of growing conditions.

Pots with plants in sunny weather put out. For the first time, it is desirable to do this for 15 minutes from 16 to 17 hours, when the air has warmed enough. And in the future, the residence time of cucumbers in the natural environment is gradually increasing. In cold and damp weather, hardening is not carried out.

Planting seedlings in a permanent place

The time for transplanting seedlings into the greenhouse and on the open bed comes 25 days after sowing, when 2 pairs of leaves appear on the stems. Usually these are the last weeks of May. It is important that stable heat is established and the threat of spring frosts passes.

At the chosen place, pre-weed and loosen the soil, deepening to 20 cm. Take these procedures seriously, because the flowering of weeds in the garden or in the greenhouse is unacceptable, and cucumbers cannot be rooted in hard ground.

In addition, during subsequent processing of the plot with a chopper, the probability of damage to the surface roots of the culture is high. With severe soil depletion, additional top dressing with organic substances is indicated. It can be carried out at the preparatory stage of the site or at the time of transplanting seedlings.

Important! You can not plant Paratunka in place of cucumbers, as well as gourds and pumpkin crops.

The process of transplanting cucumber seedlings is best done according to the following scheme:

  1. In the selected place, make shallow holes up to 45 cm wide.
  2. Put about 40 g of compost or humus into the grooves made (in case of preliminary top dressing of the soil, this stage can be skipped).
  3. Generously moisten the wells and place containers with seedlings in them. It is important that they are from a self-dissolving nutrient material, otherwise the sprouts will have to be removed along with a moist earthen lump. And this is fraught with root integrity. In a row between plants there should be a space of up to 1 m with half-meter row spacing. Experts believe that, regardless of the technology of growing vegetables, 1 m² should account for no more than 3 stems.
  4. Fill the pits with nutrient soil and compact it.
  5. Since Paratunka is prone to building long branchy vines, immediately install a trellis.

Reckless way

In regions with a warm climate, you can sow the seeds of cucumbers directly on the garden, choosing the right garden and waiting for stable heat.

Seat selection

When choosing a site for planting a hybrid, you need to pay attention to:

  • predecessors (cabbage, greens, carrots, onions, rhubarb, legumes and solanaceous crops are considered the best);
  • the illumination of the beds (should be in the area of ​​accessibility of sunlight and protected from cold through wind);
  • looseness and nutritiousness of the soil (loamy and sandy loamy substrates should be avoided; all varieties of chernozem are ideal);
  • the location of the terrain (the lowlands where rainwater and cold air masses are collected are categorically contraindicated, as well as hills where moisture evaporation occurs in an accelerated manner);
  • the proximity of plants (on the north side, it is desirable to surround cucumbers with corn, dill and coriander, but such crops cannot be planted from the south).

Learn more about growing cucumbers properly.

Landing technology

Given the tendency of Paratunka to grow voluminous lashes, it is important to maintain a distance of about 1.5 m between neighboring plants.

Planting cucumbers on open ground is as follows:

  1. On a plowed area rake break up clods of earth and level the surface.
  2. In the absence of autumn feeding, prepare several buckets of compost or humus. Fertilizers can be scattered across an unseeded bed or applied directly into a hole with grains. In the first option, additional processing of the site with a rake is required.
  3. Using glanders, make deep rows at a distance of 2 m from each other. Make sure that the soil is loose. Otherwise, you will have to make a defecate to the site.
  4. Pour indentations with warm, settled water.
  5. Sow the seeds in rows, observing an interval of 1.5 m.
  6. Fill the recesses with earth and tamp.
  7. To accelerate seedlings, cover the inoculation with plastic wrap.

Important! When the temperature outside does not rise above + 16 ° C, you do not need to water the cucumbers, otherwise the plants will be fruitless.

How to care for crops

For full growth, cucumbers of any variety require enough heat and moisture. Fertilizers, preventive treatments and soil hygiene will also be useful.

Watering and feeding

Vegetable culture reacts painfully to drought and excessive dampness, therefore, requires constant monitoring of moisture levels. During irrigation, the drying of the earth, as well as its waterlogging, is unacceptable. In addition, the common mistake of many gardeners is the use of cold water.

Together, these adverse factors significantly reduce the amount of yield.

According to experts, it is necessary to moisten the cucumber bed with a liquid with a temperature of + 22 ... + 25 ° С. This recommendation is especially relevant during the formation of inflorescences. Therefore, always water garden plants with water that has settled for 24 hours and managed to warm up in a day.

The number of moisturizing procedures depends on weather conditions. To prevent sunburn, it is best to plan such events in the evening.

The hybrid differs from other cucumber varieties in a greater need for moisture. Therefore, in hot weather, it is recommended to water it every day in small portions, and in cloudy weather it is enough to moisten in 2-3 days.

The quantity and quality of fruits can be improved by timely fertilizers. To do this, you need to insist a third of the slurry in a closed bucket of water for a week. The finished solution is diluted in half with warm water and watered with plants, protecting the foliage from dripping.

Also, a good infusion of fresh nettles, which takes about 10 days to cook, has proven itself. Top dressing for this culture is important until fruit set with a frequency of 2 weeks.

Important! With an excess of nitrogen, many empty flowers appear on cucumber vines. The situation can be saved by introducing equal parts of superphosphate and nitrophosphate. On 125-30 g of each substance.

Shaping and tying a bush

In order not to disturb the culture once again, it is advisable to take care of the support immediately when planting seeds or seedlings. It is a trellis with multi-tier tension of the tow. For such structures, soft wire or twine is suitable.

The stems of the plant require garter when 4 pairs of leaves are formed on them. Then the liana is lifted to a support and gently fixed with a garter without tightening its edges.

A properly formed bush of cucumbers resembles an inverted pyramid. To do this, it is recommended to remove stepsons and flowers in the first 4 deciduous sinuses. In the 5 and 6 sinuses, only flowers are left, plucking the side shoots. In the following 3 sinuses, flowering sprouts with 1 leaf and ovary should be left.

Moving higher along the stems, they form a bush on the principle of smooth growth of foliage and flowers. That is, on the central vine every 3 leaf plates are added one at a time.

Learn more about tying cucumbers properly.

When the central lash reaches the trellis, it is tied up and allowed to grow another 20 cm. After that, pinch the sprout. В дальнейшем аналогичные манипуляции проводят с боковыми отростками.

Soil care

Самые длинные корни гибрида достигают 20 см глубины, а большинство отростков корневой системы располагаются на поверхности грунта. Эту особенность важно учитывать при уходе за культурой. Ведь улучшить аэрацию её подземной части поможет регулярное рыхление грядки.

Нельзя допускать образования засохшей корки на поверхности почвы. Рекомендовано периодически тяпкой прорабатывать междурядья. Такая процедура будет полезной и в борьбе с сорняками, которые являются главными конкурентами для огурцов в питании.

После полива растения грунт грядки обязательно мульчируют компостом, перегноем либо древесными опилками. Нельзя для подобных целей использовать хвойные материалы, поскольку они способствуют окислению грунта.

После пересадки рассаду окучивают для предупреждения оголения корней.

Did you know? Регулярное потребление свежих огурцов способствует нормализации работы щитовидной железы и очищению стенок сосудов от холестерина.

Pest and Disease Control

Нарушения элементарных правил агротехники выращивания огурцов, а также неблагоприятные погодные условия являются главными причинами заболеваемости культуры. С целью предупреждения развития патологии потребуется дезинфекция кустов инсектицидами и фунгицидами.

Поскольку в условиях закрытого и открытого грунта гибрид часто подвергается атакам паутинного клеща, трипсов, белокрылок, тли, на помощь придёт один из препаратов «Актара», «Актеллик», «Фитоверм». Обработка проводится согласно с инструкциями производителей путём смачивания нижней стороны листвы.

На протяжении сезона рекомендовано 2 подобные процедуры.

Паратунка отличается повышенной устойчивостью к распространённым заболеваниям, но, оказавшись в плохо вентилируемой теплице, может проявить чувствительность к возбудителям мучнистой росы, переноспороза, кладоспороза, антракноза. При культивации огурцов на открытом грунте риски заражения возрастают в случае затяжных дождей.

В случае грибковых инфекций, а также для их предупреждения, рекомендовано применять препараты «Скор», бордосская жидкость, «Фитоспорин», «Хом», «Оксихом». Однако многие огородники прибегают к народному проверенному методу: срезают нижние листья с подвязанных лиан и протирают их соком оголённое основание стебля, после того обрабатывают его просеянной золой.

Чтобы избежать риска заражения, даже при неблагоприятных внешних факторах, эксперты советуют:

  • ежедневно проветривать укрывные конструкции;
  • защитить грядку от сквозняков;
  • всегда при поливе использовать только тёплую отстоявшуюся воду;
  • при выборе участка следить за севооборотом;
  • периодически проводить осмотр культуры на предмет патологий.

Did you know? На санскрите название огурца созвучно с именем индийского князя, потомство которого, согласно легенде, насчитывает 60 тысяч детей.

Сроки и схема сбора урожая

Желающим развести раннеспелый гибрид огурцов Паратунка f1 следует учесть обильное плодоношение сорта. Первый урожай можно будет попробовать через 45 дней после посадки семян. Но последующих плодов долго ждать не придётся, поэтому не забывайте ежедневно проверять лианы, собирая зеленцы.

Чем чаще вы будете срывать со стеблей плоды, тем больше будет урожай. Плодоношение этого гибрида длится до морозов. Не допускайте пожелтение кожицы на плодах, ведь такие экземпляры теряют нежность мякоти, аромат и вкус. Оптимальными для сбора урожая являются огурцы длиною до 7 см.

Огурцы Паратунка выгодны для выращивания обильным и ранним плодоношением. При соблюдении элементарных агротехнических правил культура продемонстрирует высокую устойчивость к типичным заболеваниям и вредителям, а также будет благодарить свежими сочными плодами на протяжении всего лета.

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