The stem rose is the pride of any gardener. This elegant ornamental plant is able to decorate any landscape, as well as become its main highlight. It is not surprising that most gardeners try to cultivate this plant on their own plot, but not everyone succeeds. In the article we will tell you how to grow a mini-rose on a stem with your own hands, as well as discover the main secrets of this process.

What is a standard rose: features of a flower

Stamp rose is found in gardens quite often. This unique plant is characterized by abundant and long flowering. When a plant is said to be standard, it means that it does not grow as a shrub, but as a tree. The rose on the stem is a tall, tree-like plant belonging to the Pink family. It is not included in a separate species or subspecies of plants, since it is grown artificially.

The basis for this plant is the wild rose or another tree-like form of plants from the Pink family. With painstaking care, a small tree is formed from the base, to which a seedling of a flower is grafted. After some time, the properties of the grafted flowering plant begin to appear on the basis of. Thanks to this, a kind of hybrid is obtained, characterized by tree-like characteristics of the base, as well as the ability to bloom for a long time.

Did you know? The smallest rose on the planet is considered a flower of the Senorita Xi variety. Its height does not exceed 12 cm, while the diameter of the buds is within 1 cm.

Such plants resemble a small tree with a rounded shape, covered with many blooming roses. Despite the fact that it requires constant care and long-term formation, the plant has more favorable characteristics compared to bushy forms.

• The advantages of shtambov include:
• they are more aesthetic;
• can be grown both lonely and in mass plantings;
• bloom earlier and bloom longer than other species;
• make it possible to create a flower garden with 2-3 tiers;
• allow you to achieve any shape of the crown: from the right round to hanging, branched.

Today there are many varieties of such roses that are divided into the following groups:

1. High - their size is within 1.5 m, such plants often have elongated branched shoots hanging to the soil. All kinds of branched and creeping varieties are grafted onto the stem as a stem.
2. Full - grow up to 1 m tall, have the correct rounded crown shape. They are grown on the basis of new hybrids, characterized by high winter hardiness.
3. Half - stems - not more than 80 cm high. They are based on spreading varieties of roses with large buds (floribunda and their hybrids).
4. Low - plants that do not exceed a height of 60 cm. Such forms are grown on the basis of dwarf creeping flowers.
5. Dwarf - plants no more than 40 cm tall, which are grown using dwarf rose patios.

How to choose the right seedlings when buying

Today, the cultivation of standard roses is considered not only fascinating, but also quite profitable, but for this you need to stock up on the main thing - high-quality planting material.

Today, there are two methods for cultivating roses on a stem:

• self-vaccination of the stem on the base;
• planting the finished stem.

The most profitable way to grow this rose is to plant the finished stem. This process allows already in the next season to get a fully blooming tree. While self-vaccination, it will take about 5 years to grow the base and about 2-3 years for successful grafting. It is not easy to choose a quality seedling of a standard rose, therefore, this process should be approached as carefully as possible.

Did you know? In Germany, in the town of Hildesheim, the oldest rose bush in the world grows. There is evidence that it actively grew and flourished during the founding of the city, i.e., in the X century. Thus, the bush is about 1000 years old.

To do this, be sure to adhere to the following recommendations:

• to purchase seedlings only in professional nurseries, since only an experienced gardener can qualitatively plant a rose on a stem;
• seedlings should be sold with a closed root system, because dried roots hardly take root in the soil;
• the plant should not contain putrefactive foci or wilted parts;
• seedlings with a trunk diameter of at least 1–2 cm are suitable for rooting;
• at least 2 cuttings should be grafted on the basis, only in this case it is possible to achieve a magnificent crown of the rose.

Features of planting a flower at home

Planting a standard rose is a more complicated process than rooting bush forms. This is explained by the fact that such plants are less adapted to the environment. The vaccine negatively affects their immunity, as well as their ability to withstand a variety of negative factors, including natural origin.

Choosing the right place

The ideal site for planting should be in a well-lit place, away from drafts. Roses do not like shade and even partial shade, as this leads to the development of dark spots on the foliage, as well as the formation of blind shoots. At the same time, the site should be open and well, but moderately, ventilated, in order to avoid the development of a favorable environment for fungi. The south side of the site, protected from the cold northerly winds, is best suited for this.

Important! You can not plant roses in the area where other roses grew before that. The fact is that such soils are usually depleted by previous plants and can be infected with various pests and pathogens.

The standard form is undemanding to the soil, almost any soil is suitable for its planting, with the exception of sandy loam and loamy substrates. Soil should be characterized by moderate moisture capacity, as well as surface occurrence of groundwater (about 1 m). This will help to achieve the most effective rooting of seedlings, and will also further simplify the adjustment of the water balance of the site.

Optimal timing

The most suitable time for the planting of standard roses comes from mid-April and lasts until the end of May. However, depending on the climatic conditions of the region, the timing may shift. At the same time, planting should be carried out only after complete melting of the snow, and also after reaching a stable spring thaw, with an average daily temperature of at least + 10 ° С. You can start planting in the fall, the most favorable period for this is from mid-September to early October. By the autumn planting dates are as strict as possible, otherwise the young plant will freeze.

Preparing the landing site

The rhizome of standard plants is much larger than that of bushy species, this should be taken into account when planting a plant, since this will require a rather large hole. Most often, its depth is 70 cm, and its width is approximately 60 cm, but depending on the volume of the rhizome, it is regulated. In this case, the height and width should be no less than 10–15 cm greater than the volume of the roots together with the substrate. Wells are placed evenly on the site, while if you plant roses in a group, the distance between the individual plants should be at least 1 m.

Roses prefer light fertile soils, so the soil mixture on the site must be prepared. An ideal option for planting is a substrate consisting of compost, sand and clay (2: 1: 1). If your site has unsuitable soil, you need to fertilize it well.

Learn more about how and when to plant roses in the fall.

For this, special organic mixtures are used:

• for areas with sandy soil - the mixture is based on clay, turfy soil, humus and compost (2: 2: 1: 1);
• on areas with clay soil - use a mixture of sand, compost, humus, sod land (6: 1: 1: 1).

Such mixtures can also be replaced with a special biohumus, which positively affects the rooting of plants. The nutrient mixture is filled in the hole in 2/3, after which it is covered with ordinary soil. After this, the soil is left alone for 20 days. During this time, the soil is saturated with nutrients and all kinds of trace elements. Immediately before planting, the fertilized areas are well digged up, evenly mixing the layer of organic feed and the main soil.

Landing technology

It is not difficult to plant a standard rose, however, this process requires observance of certain subtleties that affect not only rooting, but also the further successful growth of the plant.

To do this, it is recommended to adhere to the following landing stages:

1. To improve rooting, about a day before planting, soak the seedlings in a growth stimulator. The most effective in this regard are the solutions of "Kornevin" and potassium humate.
2. Water the prepared area well.
3. Gently transfer the plant to the well.
4. Tilt the seedling at an angle of 45 °, while the inclination should be made in the direction of the root bend.
5. Spread the root system in the hole, directing the roots toward the side of the trunk.
6. Install a support made of a wooden or metal peg on the opposite side from the tilt of the seedling, and then tie the plant to it.
7. Fill the roots with soil, firmly compact the area around the root system, and water the stands abundantly.
8. After this, the rose needs to be spudded, this helps to avoid premature loss of moisture, as well as create the necessary microclimate in the soil.

Video: planting a standard rose

Care and growing

After you planted a rose on the site and achieved its rooting, the most important stage in its development begins - preparation for a solid growth. At this time, it is actively developing, and also gives young, flowering shoots, which require the most optimal conditions.

Optimal growing conditions

Roses are heat-loving plants, standard varieties are no exception. The average temperature optimum of +20 ... + 25 ° С is considered to be the most optimal temperature regime for growing and flowering a species. At the same time, a plant can take root and grow at a temperature in the range of +10 ... + 15 ° С. A prerequisite for the cultivation of the stem is lighting, it must be intense and uniform throughout the daylight, otherwise it will lead to a variety of pathologies of green mass and inhibition of flowering.

Important! The root neck of the plant trunk should be buried in the soil no more than 2 - 3 cm, otherwise this will adversely affect the rooting of the seedling.

Watering and feeding

Frequent watering is the main condition for the continued growth and abundant flowering of all representatives of the Pinks. That is why the procedure is carried out regularly. Rose plantings are watered every 2-3 days and abundantly, regardless of whether the soil has dried or not. A lack of moisture has a detrimental effect on flowering, so even prolonged drying of the soil should not be allowed. For irrigation use only clean, settled water. Under one adult plant, at least 20 liters of water are necessarily poured.

Standard roses are fed only 2 times per season: in early spring and autumn, after flowering. Use humus or dung for this, which are tightly laid around the trunk circle. You can replace them with liquid fertilizers prepared from a solution of mullein (1:10) or bird droppings (1:15).

Organic fertilizing can be replaced with mineral mixtures; for this, liquid solutions based on the complex content of potassium, phosphorus, magnesium and nitrogen are added to the soil. At the same time, the amount of nitrogen introduced per season should not be less than 6 kg. Most often, such preparations are supplemented with Gilea Vegetation, Green Guy and other analogues.

Read more about what and how to properly fertilize roses.

Weeding and cultivation

Weeding and loosening are carried out regularly. Loosen the soil after each irrigation, but at least 1 time per week, to a depth of 3-4 cm. After this, in order to avoid drying of the soil, the root ring is mulched with sawdust or bark. Weeding the rosary is done as necessary, but at least 1 time in 7 days, avoiding the appearance of any weeds. Such vegetation is fatal for roses, because it not only draws nutrients and microelements to their soil, but also saturates the soil with all kinds of toxins.

Pruning

Plant pruning is necessary, because only with its help it is possible to achieve a perfectly even crown, as well as prolonged flowering of the stem. In addition, the dog rose is usually the basis for the plant, which quite often gives wild branches, which worsens the overall decorativeness of the grafted graft.

Trimming 2 times per season, in spring and autumn, taking into account the following requirements:

• cut the shoots, leaving more than 5 buds, since shortening to 2-3 buds leads to excessive activation of shoot growth and inhibition of flowering;
• root offspring have no value for the bush, they are removed completely;
• in order to achieve a magnificent crown, it is necessary to cut off faded flowers, and also thin out the buds;
• at ground cover stands, it is necessary to shorten not only the main, but also additional branches;
• during the last wave of flowering, flowers should be left on the shoots, removing the petals from them - this will help improve the ripening of the shoots before wintering.

We recommend that you find out when and how to prune the roses.

Shelter for the winter

Stump roses are prepared for winter in late October-early November, after the air temperature drops to +5 ... + 10 ° С. The first thing to do during this period is to cut off unripe shoots. After this, the main shoots are shortened, leaving about 6 viable buds on each. After that, the base of the stem is spud, and the top is covered with burlap or agrofibre.

If necessary, the rose is pressed to the soil and covered with polyethylene, and then with a layer of hay or straw, 10-15 cm thick. Do this carefully to avoid brittleness of the base. It is not recommended to lay a rose on the soil, it is best to lay the base for the plant from wooden boards or other natural materials.

Important! In winter, the covered rose should be abundantly sprinkled with snow, this will help to significantly increase the thermal insulation properties of the protective shelter.

Plant diseases and pests

The stem rose is quite often exposed to infections and attacks of various pests. Unfortunately, such plants do not differ in increased resistance to various ailments, which dramatically affects their life expectancy. Most often, in the rosary, the gardener is faced with the invasion of caterpillars, scutes, ticks, earwigs, aphids, thrips. They like to feast on the juice and young shoots of the rose, which causes inhibition of its growth and flowering. They control pests by treating with complex insecticides (Aktara, Bi-58, Rose Clear, etc.). Carry out the procedure in early spring and repeat in case of parasites.

Of the diseases on the bush, there may be a viral mosaic, chlorosis, spotting, pink and gray rot. For the prevention of diseases, the rose must be treated in spring with a solution of iron sulfate (1: 3), re-treatment is carried out after 4 weeks. When acute foci of ailments appear, the affected parts of the shoots are removed, and the rosary is carefully treated with complex fungicides (Agat, Kurzat, Quadris, Fitosporin, etc.).

Use in landscape design

Standard roses look good in any landscape design, most often they are used for:

• single landing: as decoration of benches, arbors and other places of rest;
• group planting on the front of the garden: as the main plant object;
• track decoration: when creating pink alleys;
• mass planting: when arranging the rosary;
• garden decorations combined with short and tall vegetation.

Learn more about the most fragrant and fragrant varieties of roses.

The most profitable in the garden such mushrooms are combined with:

• rudbeckia;
• lavender;
• geraniums;
• sage;
• lobelia;
• ageratum;
• petunia;
• gray fescue;
• maned barley.

The stem rose is the perfect complement to any garden plot. Such a plant differs from related species in long flowering, as well as a more exotic species. Growing a rose on a stem is not easy, but possible. To do this, you need to create her an optimal microclimate and ensure proper care. Take advantage of our tips in practice, and you will see this.