Blackberry is a berry with a pleasant taste, sweet and healthy, which is also easy to grow. This is a very productive crop, from one bush of which you can get about 10-12 kg of tasty and healthy berries. That is why it can be called a godsend for gardeners. However, the berry, incredibly popular in Western countries, is grown in European countries only occasionally.

Botanical description, characteristic

In accordance with the botanical description, the garden blackberry is a representative of the Rubus genus, the Pink family. The most popular are bushy blackberries (better known under the name of “kumanika”) and gray-eyed blackberries (it is sometimes called “burn”).

Blackberry garden - shrub or shrub liana . The plant is distinguished by the presence of a stem shoot, which is very flexible. On the surface of the shoot there are many sharp spikes (prickly varieties), and the end of the stem is represented by perennial rhizome. The height of the plant can reach 2 m, provided that a trellis or other support is located nearby, on which the blackberry can spread.

Did you know? Breeders have already bred non-studded varieties of blackberries, which also strike with increased resistance to diseases and pests, high productivity.

Leaf plates are usually five to seven divisible or triple. They have a pale or bright green tint. The plant acts as an excellent honey plant during the flowering period. The flowers of the plant reach 3 cm in diameter. Often, blackberries bloom from June to August, depending on the climatic characteristics of the region. The first fruits can be enjoyed in early August, but fruiting continues almost until the first frost.

The berries of the blackberry are resilient and fairly dense. They have a dark brown, black or dark purple hue . On the surface of the fruit may be a light coating of a bluish color. Characteristics of berries depends on the species and variety.

• The main features include:
• Blackberries can easily tolerate drought, but it’s better to water the bushes at least twice a month to get a good harvest.
• The plant can withstand up to -5 ... -10 ° C (with the exception of frost-resistant varieties). That is why culture needs obligatory shelter for the winter, so that in the spring it can be reborn and bear fruit in the future.
• The culture is considered fruitful. Depending on the variety, it is possible to get about 7-15 kg of berries from each bush. Of course, this is possible subject to the rules of cultivation.
• Berries are distinguished by good shelf life (at a temperature of + 2 ... + 5 ° C, the fruits can be stored for about 3 days) and transportability.
• One cannot fail to note the amazing taste of berries, numerous beneficial properties, as well as the same shape and size of the fruit.

In addition, different varieties of blackberries have their advantages and disadvantages. It is very important to responsibly approach the selection of a suitable variety for cultivation in a particular region in order to achieve simple care, a plentiful and really tasty crop.

The plant can be used in both industrial and domestic cultivation . Most likely, gardeners will appreciate the blackberry very soon and its plantations will be distributed not only in the countries of America, but also in Europe.

Variety selection for outdoor cultivation

When choosing a suitable variety for outdoor cultivation, you need to focus on the size of the fruit, taste, resistance to frost and drought, the possibility of using agricultural machinery.

The best varieties are the following:

1. Loch Tay . This is a Scottish variety of early ripening. Advantages of the bush are neshipous, large-fruited, frost-resistant, sweet taste. The variety is very productive. A significant minus is the need for mandatory formation of the crown. Suitable for growth in cold climates, for example, in the Leningrad region.
   

2. Prime Arc Freedom . This is a repairing English variety. Its advantages are shiplessness, high productivity, pleasant dessert taste: sweetness with a slight sourness and juiciness. The disadvantages include low frost resistance and the need for tying branches.
   

3. Chester . This is an American variety of late fruiting. The advantages of the culture are long fruiting, no need for pinching, the formation of a large number of fruit brushes. The disadvantages include the difficulty in shelter for the winter and the inability to ripen berries in the cold years.
   

4. Polar . This is a Polish medium-ripening variety. Its advantages are large berries with dessert taste, high productivity. The main disadvantage is brittle and stiff stems.
   

5. Natchez . This is an early American variety. Its advantages include neshiplessness, marketability, excellent taste, transportability, a long period of fruiting. The disadvantages include fragility of shoots, a small number of substitution shoots.
   

You can give preference to other varieties. It is advisable to choose frost-resistant for any climate, because caring for them is easier. Hybrids are a worthy choice, as they are resistant to pests and diseases.

How to plant

It is important to understand the rules and features of how to plant a blackberry. If you ignore the timing, tips for choosing a place and selecting planting material, you do not have to rely on a good harvest. There are no particular difficulties in growing this crop, but still you need to learn some nuances: when to plant, how to plant, where to place it better, whether to spike.

The timing

Landing on a personal plot is allowed in spring and autumn. Each time period has its advantages and disadvantages. When choosing, it is necessary to focus on the climatic conditions of the region where the cultivated plant is planned to be grown.

The main advantages of planting blackberry seedlings in spring include the following:

1. Optimal soil moisture. In most cases, there is no need for watering, since rains and snow will provide the crop with sufficient moisture. An exception is winter winter watering, which is carried out from the next year after planting the plant's life.
2. The root system of the plant in winter will slowly develop, and in the spring the culture will meet the already ingrained one. In other words, there will be a clear lead in bush growth compared to those that were planted in the spring.
3. A variety of planting material. It is in the fall that most seedlings are offered in gardening stores and professional nurseries. By spring, most will be already bought, so there will be a shortage.
4. Minimal amount of worries. There is no need to think about how to preserve planting material. Saplings will quietly develop.

Autumn landing is the best option for the southern regions and central strip of Russia, Belarus and Ukraine. For the middle lane, it is advisable to start the landing in mid-October and end in mid-November and no later. For the southern regions, landing can continue until mid-December.

Important! The soil must be warm and prepared, otherwise the plant will not take root.

Spring planting is carried out if the planting of shrubs in autumn was not performed . As well as planting in the spring - a necessity for the northern regions, characterized by cold winters, when plant survival is low. Auspicious time - from mid-March to April. Well, it’s best to focus not on a specific date, but on weather conditions.

The main requirements for planting a blackberry in the spring are as follows:

• the air should warm up to a temperature of + 10 ... + 15 ° C;
• the soil should warm up to a depth of at least 10-12 cm.

Important! With a spring planting, the humus is removed after 3 weeks, and with an autumn planting, they are left for the whole winter.

Remember to prepare the site for planting. For spring replanting, preparation is performed in the fall, and for autumn replanting - 2-3 weeks before the procedure itself.

Site selection, site preparation

It is necessary to responsibly approach the choice of the site. The best option is a sunny, but sheltered from the wind section. Keep in mind that in too arid areas, the blackberry will not take root, but the stagnation of moisture for it is even more disastrous. That is why you need to give preference to places where the groundwater level is slightly more than 1 m, but less than 2 m. In this case, stagnation of water will be excluded, but the plant will receive enough moisture.

You can plant a blackberry near the fence, but at a distance of about 1 m, so that the plant is not in the shade. It is advisable to give preference to places on the southwestern or southern side of the site. But planting in a place where vegetables grew is not allowed, it is necessary that at least 3-4 years pass. During this time, there will be a complete restoration of soil bacteria necessary for the normal development of blackberries.

Where to plant? Fertile loams are a good choice, but it is better to refuse planting in sandy, swampy, clay soils . In any case, the soil needs preparation. It needs to be dug in advance and fertilizer to a depth of about 0.35-0.5 m.

It is necessary to pour into each landing pit:

• 150 g of superphosphate;
• 5 kg of compost or manure (you can use only rotted, fresh is not allowed);
• 50 g of potassium salts.

Top dressing is thoroughly mixed with soil. The next 3-4 years, fertilizer is not required. If top dressing is not performed during the planting period, then the plant will need to be fertilized annually.

Selection of planting material, how to prepare [o: p]

When choosing planting material, one should be guided by the following recommendations:

• it is necessary to give preference to zoned varieties;
• non-studded varieties are more convenient in planting, subsequent care and subsequent harvest;
• upright and semi-spreading varieties are easier to tolerate low temperatures;
• repair varieties are more resistant to diseases and pests;
• hybrids have excellent natural immunity.

A good seedling should have more than 2 shoots with a thickness of 0.5 cm or more with a developed root system (roots must be longer than 10-15 cm) of a closed (in the planting packaging) type. The age of the seedling should be more than 1 g. In this case, the survival rate will be almost 100%.

Where to plant: in the shade or in the sun

Blackberry is a sun-loving plant. It needs to be planted in a well-lit place. Subsequent bearing directly depends on this. Did you know? Blackberry was known more than 2000 years ago. Even then, it was actively grown, used in cooking and medicine.

When planting a berry bush in the shade, it will deform: the shoots stretch out in the direction of the light will be thin brittle. Leaves can change shape. The berries will be small and sour, or the bush will not spoil at all.

Landing algorithm

The blackberry planting algorithm is uncomplicated.

But still, it is better to follow the following step-by-step instructions:

1. Prepare a hole at the selected location with the depth and diameter of the corresponding seedling root system. Remember that you need to deepen the plant only to the root neck and not deeper.
2. Add fertilizer to the well (composition described above).
3. Spread the roots of the seedling. Holding it vertically, immerse it in a prepared hole and sprinkle with clean soil, then slightly compact it.
4. Check the deepening of the root neck. It should be underground about 2-4 cm.
5. Shorten the stalk so that it does not rise above 5-15 cm above the ground. It is possible to refuse pruning if a seedling is planted with a closed root system.
6. Form a hole around the planted plant and pour 10 l of water into it with a watering can.
7. After absorbing the liquid, you need to mulch the soil with fallen leaves, straw, wood chips, peat chips, sawdust or compost so that the layer is about 4 cm.

Video: How to plant a blackberry. Blackberry Care

Care Rules

Growing a blackberry is easy. It is important to take care of the bushes correctly so that you can count on a plentiful and tasty crop.

So, you need to follow these requirements:

1. Watering . Immediately after planting, the plant must be watered every 7 days, then watering is reduced to 1 time in 2 weeks. Under each bush you need to pour at least 10 liters of water at a time.
2. Weeding . At least 1 time in 2 weeks (and preferably as necessary), weed the plant from weeds.
3. Loosening . Loosening the soil monthly to improve aeration.
4. Mulching. It is performed for the winter so that the plant better survives the cold.
5. Top dressing . It is carried out by mulching, that is, spreading fertilizers on the ground. Peat, humus or compost is used. You can use potassium, nitrogen and phosphorus-containing additives, taking into account the period of the plant's life: growth, flowering or fruiting.

In addition, do not forget to fight pests and diseases as necessary so that the culture does not die. Trimming and forming the crown crown is performed annually.

Trimming and shaping a bush

Cutting the blackberry bush should be done regularly.

The main reasons for the procedure are as follows:

• the bush is growing rapidly, which means harvesting will be difficult;
• frigid branches become unnecessary, they need to be disposed of, because they take energy from the bush;
• after autumn pruning, plants tolerate better low temperatures;
• shortening of young animals allows to make their subsequent care easier, to contribute to a larger crop due to stimulation of flowering;
• the harvest will not be given by weak, frozen out or affected by pests branches, so you need to get rid of them.

Pruning at the summer cottage can be performed in one of two ways, selected according to the variety of culture:

1. The fan method is used for upright varieties. Its peculiarity is that last year's branches need to be attached vertically to the trellis, and young growth - horizontally. It turns out a kind of fan. In autumn, to see that you need to trim vertically under the root is not difficult. Then the horizontal ones are tied up vertically, because they are already old, and new ones are tied in their place.
   

2. The rope technique is designed for creeping varieties, characterized by flexible and long branches . Last year’s branches spiral wound onto the wire, moving in one direction. Young shoots are tied up by analogy, but on the reverse side. In the fall, the shoots that produced the fruit are cut off, the young growth (its harvest is expected in the coming year) is tied to the place of the old ones, and only the formed stems are tied in their place. The advantage of the method is that neither the spikes nor the length of the shoots interfere with pruning.
   

Before the summer of the first year of life of the stems, they need to be trimmed by 5–7 cm to stimulate the appearance of lateral processes. In the second year of life after fruiting, they are cut off completely. As necessary, not only autumn (removal of the offspring shoots), but also spring pruning is performed. It is sanitary: it allows you to get rid of damaged shoots and form a crown.

Pillar and wire trellis installation diagram

Making and installing trellis is a simple procedure that you can do yourself. The basis is poles, for example, poles made of wood or pipes made of metal. Pillars are designed to draw lines. In the fall, all old branches are cut, and the rest are tied.

Production is as follows:

• in a row, holes are dug where the poles will be mounted (depth should be 80 cm), and between them you need to allocate about 5 m;
• a layer of rubble (about 10-15 cm) is placed in each pit to prevent pillars from sagging;
• the lower part of the supports should be treated with mastic, then the structures are mounted in a hole, they provide leveling on the ground, they are covered with earth and compacted;
• the wires are stretched between the supports, it is enough to make 3 or 4 tiers in increments of 50 cm.

Next, the blackberry is formed on the trellis according to one of the following schemes:

1. Weave.
   
   The branches are attached to the trellis in 3 tiers. When new branches grow, they are bent away from the trunk, leading to the fourth line, that is, up.
2. A fan. Old branches are tied vertically, like a fan, fixing in 3 lines. Young growth lets in 4 lines, that is, on top.
3. One-sided tilt. The deflated shoots must be tilted in one direction, fixing in 3 lines. Young growth weaves along the old, but in the opposite direction.

Harvesting and storage

Harvesting is done as the blackberries ripen. Berries must be ripe, as they do not have ripening properties in the ripped form. It is imperative to harvest the fruit in dry weather, at noon, or later. If raindrops remain on the berries or there is dew, the fruits will be wet, their laying will be impossible, since they will not mold.

Important! Storage of berries is allowed at a temperature of + 2 ... + 7 ° C for 3 days.

You can save the berry in other ways. If desired, they can be frozen or dried in the sun, in the oven or through a dryer to increase shelf life.

Preparing for wintering, how to shelter

Shelter of the plant is a necessity for wintering, because the culture cannot withstand temperatures below -5 ... -10 ° C (with the exception of frost-resistant varieties).

Preparing for the winter is as follows:

1. Carry out an autumn pruning by removing the shoots under the root. Stems bear fruit only 1 year.
2. Then, perform winter watering of the plant with the expectation that for each bush you need 10 or 15 liters of water.
3. Be sure to perform winter fertilizing with mineral fertilizers, the task of which is to maintain a culture in winter and ensure active growth in spring.
4. The trunk circle is mulched with suitable material, for example, fine sawdust or fallen leaves.

The last step in winter preparation is to shelter a blackberry for the winter . It's not hard. Нужно убрать шпалеры, стебли пригнуть к почве, пришпилить любым способом и укрыть лапником. Если проигнорировать необходимость подготовке к зиме, то нет гарантии того, что растение переживёт зиму. Помните, что укрытие необычайно важно для местности с холодными зимами.

Breeding methods

Разводить ежевику можно вегетативными методами: отпрысками, отводками, черенками. Допускается разведение культуры с помощью семян и рассады, но только с целью сохранить сортовые признаки культуры при необходимости.

Размножение отводками выполняется по такому алгоритму:

1. Подготовьте борозду глубиной 15 см (желательно в начале августа).
2. В неё укладывается побег возрастом 1 год и засыпается грунтом.
3. Обрежьте побег сверху на 10 см, что затормозить рост.
4. Уложите на место прикопки что-то тяжёлое или воспользуйтесь проволокой.
5. Замульчируйте почву посредством опавших листьев, прелых опилок и т. д.
6. Обеспечьте регулярный полив.

Обычно укоренение происходит спустя 2 месяца. Можно отсоединить новый экземпляр от маточного, а затем пересадить саженец туда, где он будет расти. Можно использовать верхушечные побеги, чтобы размножить культуру . Для этого выбранный побег наклоняется к земле и прикапывается. Причём кончик нужно обрезать.

Желательно выполнить надрез на коре, которая будет скрыта под землёй, чтобы новый экземпляр быстрее укоренился. Как только сформируются корни, можно пересадить саженец на место, где он будет расти постоянно, но желательно делать это весной.

Черенкование — популярный способ получить новое растение . Допускается применение и корневых, и зелёных черенков.

Корневое черенкование выполняется так:

1. Плодоносящее растение следует выкопать с корнем в конце осени или весной по окончании заморозков
2. Разделить его на куски так, чтобы осталось не менее 60 см длины корневой системы основного куста. Толщина черенков должна быть более 0, 5 см, а длина — более 10 см.
3. Черенок можно сразу высадить туда, где будет расти культура, минуя необходимость использовать пикировочную грядку. Между черенками должно быть 20 см, а междурядье — 80 см.
4. Полив должен осуществляться еженедельно до появления корней, летом выполняют прополку и рыхление грунта.

Черенки спустя год обзаведутся развитой корневой системой и 2-3 побегами. Размножение бесшипных сортов таким способом недопустимо, ведь ежевика вырастет с шипами. Черенкование с помощью побегов выполняют в июле. Нужно отрезать от ветки его верхнюю третью часть. Черенок должен иметь хотя бы 1 лист и 1 почку.

Ветка обрабатывается любым стимулятором роста корней, например, «Цирконом» или «Корневином» . Затем черенки высаживают в стакан с почвой (керамзит, вермикулит и торф используют в равных частях). Ёмкости укрывают полиэтиленом. Спустя 1 месяц образуются корни, и тогда выполняется пересадка.

Размножение отпрысками заключается в использовании молодняка от корня, наблюдаемые у кустов возрастом 3 и более лет. Их с корнями и земляным комом нужно выкопать в мае, когда погода точно будет тёплой. Высота ветви при этом должна быть более 10 см. Молодняк рассаживается на пикировочную грядку, чтобы добиться доращивания.

Когда растение вырастет (толщина побегов более 8 см, корневая длина более 15 см) выполняется пересадка. Делать это нужно осенью, а в посадочную лунку обязательно добавляют минеральные удобрения (осенью использовать органику крайне нежелательно, так как она является питанием для грызунов и насекомых зимой, а значит, к весне растение будет ослабленным).

Important! Гибриды и крупноплодная ежевика отпрысков не дают, а значит, такой способ размножения для них не доступен.

Размножение семенным материалом возможно засеивать в грунт из равных частей торфяной крошки, лёгкой почвы и влажного песка.

For this:

1. Семена выдерживают 3 часа в воде, затем лишнюю воду сливают, а семенной материал заворачивают во влажную салфетку и выдерживают 3 дня периодически спрыскивая водой.
2. Когда семена набухнут, их высаживают в подготовленный грунт, углубляя до 8 мм.
3. Почву нужно уплотнить и хорошо полить.
4. Контейнеры отправляются в место, где температура не более +5°С, на 2 месяца.
5. Важно поддерживать лёгкую влажность грунта.
6. По истечение указанного времени ёмкости заносят в тёплое место, дожидаясь проращивания.

Помните, что сигналом к пикировке служит наличие на всходах 3-х и более листочков.

Diseases and Pests

Ежевика подвержена воздействию вредителей и заражению заболеваниями.

Наиболее популярные проблемы следующие:

1. Грибковые заболевания, например, серая, белая, бурая гниль, ржавчина и т. д. Признаки: появление пятен на разных частях растении, деформация стеблей и плодов, наличие серого налёта. Лечение заключается в обработке кустов бордосской жидкостью, а также применением биологическим препаратов, например, «Топсина М», «Топаза», «Триходермина» и т. д.
2. Вирусные болезни, например, курчавость, жёлтая сетчатость, мозаика и т. д. Признаки: пятна разного характера, деформация листьев и стеблей, ослабление растения. Действенный методов борьбы с такими заболеваниями нет. Растения подлежат сжиганию, а почва дезинфекции.
3. Бактериальные заболевания, например, стеблевой или корневой рак и т. д. Основной признак — появление наростов различного размера. Treatment is not possible. Растения сжигаются, а почва дезинфицируется.
4. Неинфекционные болезни, например, ожоги или отёки и т. д. Причина заключается в неправильном уходе. Признаки: ослабленность, скручивание частей растения, опадание листьев и т. д. Для лечения нужно определить проблему, например, при недостатке азота вносится это удобрение и т. д.
5. Насекомые-вредители, например, тля, клещи, бронзовка, долгоносик и т. д . Они пожирают растение. Лечение — обработка инсектицидами.

Профилактика болезней и вредителей — своевременная обработка растений инсектицидами и фунгицидами, внесение подкормок по мере необходимости, соблюдение требований ухода.

Ежевика — удивительная ягодная культура, выращивание которой не такое сложное, как может показаться на первый взгляд. Достаточно соблюдать простые рекомендации, и кусты порадуют обильным и вкусным урожаем.