Haworthia striped: how to care at home

Striped haworthia came to us from the arid regions of the African continent. They like to use this low hardy succulent of spectacular color in interior decoration, compositions, florariums and mini kindergartens. Let us examine in more detail the striped haworthia, the features of its maintenance, care and reproduction, and possible difficulties.

Botanical description of the plant

Haworthia striped is a succulent from the haworthia genus of the asphodel family. It is a rosette of narrow fleshy leaves with a diameter of up to 15 cm, pointed to the ends, and accumulating water in themselves. On the dark green leaves across the outer part are white speckled stripes.

The inner part of the leaf is smooth, and the leaves themselves grow to 5–10 cm.

Did you know? The haworthy clan got its name from the surname of the famous English botanist and entomologist E. Haworth, who lived at the turn of the 18th-19th centuries. His specialization was growing plants from seeds.

It blooms with small white flowers collected in a panicle on a long brownish peduncle.

House growing conditions

Haworthia striped unpretentious, like all succulents. However, in order for the plant to show its best side, grow well and develop, it needs to create optimal conditions.

Location and Lighting

Haworthia striped is a photophilous succulent and feels best in bright scattered light. Direct rays of the sun negatively affect the decorative appearance of the plant, so it is recommended to shade it from the hot rays of the sun.

Because of this, it is often placed in the shade of larger indoor flowers on the windows facing south. It is best suited to a western or eastern location, where it can do without shading. Haworthia can grow on the north side of the house, in the shade, but such lighting will weaken the plant.

In summer, this succulent can be taken to the garden or to the balcony to places with good sunlight, but without direct rays. She loves the fresh air.

It will also be useful for you to learn about the peculiarities of growing such succulents as aichrison, jatropha, aptenia, junkus, hymnocalycium.

Temperature and humidity

During the growing season, which falls on March-October, the optimal temperature range will be + 15 ... + 27 ° С. In summer heat, striped haworthia can transfer heat to + 30 ° C, but it will need more frequent watering and the absence of direct sunlight.

The rest period requires lower temperatures in the range + 10 ... + 15 ° С. A colder content (below + 5 ° C) can damage this succulent and provoke the appearance of blackness on the leaves. Therefore, it should be ensured that the window sill where the haworthy is kept is not too cold, and that the draft does not blow from the frost.

Not everyone has the opportunity to lower temperatures to organize winter dormancy. In this case, the plant must be removed away from the batteries and less often irrigated to prevent its growth in the winter.

Dry air does not harm the plant, and there is no need for spraying. Hurotry can and should be washed periodically from dust and dirt. The main thing is to prevent overmoistening of the soil or accumulation of moisture in the outlet at the base.

How to care at home

Haworthia striped feels good in a home environment and caring for it is not particularly troublesome.


Striped havrotia is watered as necessary - when the soil dries. In warm time (spring-summer) this is done more often than during dormancy. In the heat, this is done almost every day, when the earth has dried out by at least 2 cm. In winter, they can be watered only 1-2 times per month.

In this matter, it is better to focus on the condition of the leaves. When they become soft, this means that the plant lacks moisture, and gives up the accumulated in itself. Full drying of the soil should be avoided.

Important! It is necessary to water the plant with settled water at room temperature, and make sure that the liquid does not get into the joints of the leaves. Waterlogging the soil and moisture on the plant itself can cause the appearance of various rot.

Fertilizer application

Striped haworthia can grow normally on poor soils. It should be fed infrequently and only during the growing season. It is enough to apply top dressing in spring and summer no more than once a month.

Organic fertilizers are not used for this succulent, only mineral fertilizers recommended for succulents and cacti. Moreover, underfeeding is more desirable for this plant than overfeeding.

With an excess of minerals, Haworthia leaves turn yellow or red, and its decorative appearance is lost. Therefore, the concentration of the finished fertilizer is reduced by 2 times than the manufacturer recommends on the label. It is important that the proportion of nitrogen in it is less, and parts of potassium and phosphorus - higher.


A freshly bought plant should be transplanted. Young haworthias are transplanted every year, and for old plants it is enough to arrange a transplant once every 2-3 years. During this time, the succulent has time to master all the soil in the tank, and its roots begin to emerge from the holes for drainage.

He is advised to pick up a pot slightly larger than the previously used one. It is best to dwell on a shallow wide tank with a rounded configuration. The material for making the pot can be anything, but drainage holes are required.

The soil for haworthia should be well permeable, neutral or slightly alkaline within the range of 7.0–7.5 pH. You can buy ready-made soil for succulent plants and cacti, or you can make a suitable soil mixture yourself.

For example, mix:

  • 3 parts of universal soil;
  • 3 parts of fine gravel;
  • 3 parts of sand of large fractions;
  • 1 part clay;
  • 2 parts of crushed shell rock.

Haworthia is removed from the old pot, the children are separated, the soil is shaken off from the roots and examined. If there are dried or rotten roots, then they are removed and treated with potassium permanganate, and then sprinkled with crushed charcoal.

The plant is left outdoors for 10 days. If the roots were not removed, then it is kept outside the pot only for a day. In principle, the plant can not be kept in the air after pruning the roots, but then it is not watered after planting for about a week.

Before planting, a quarter or third of the tank is filled with a drainage layer (expanded clay, broken brick or shards). Then about 2 cm of the substrate is poured on top, a striped haworthy is placed in the middle of the pot, the roots are straightened and the finished substrate is covered.

The soil mixture is not compacted, but only tapped on the pot so that it fills all the voids. The plant is moderately watered and put in a constant place, shaded from direct sunlight.

Did you know? Haworthia was introduced to European countries at the beginning of the 18th century. At present, about 166 species of this plant are distinguished.

Features of the period

During flowering and dormancy, the plant requires special actions.


This succulent blooms rarely at home. This period at Haworthia striped occurs in May-June. Succulents throws a long peduncle (up to 0.9 m), on which inflorescences are formed in the form of a brush with small flowers of a white color.

Its flowering is inconspicuous and greatly depletes the plant, so it is recommended to remove the peduncle as soon as it becomes noticeable.


In winter, a rest period begins. The flower is transferred to a cold room (about + 12 ° C) with sufficient illumination. This is usually a balcony or loggia. With inappropriate temperature conditions, the leaves darken and begin to rot. The plant ceases to fertilize and reduce watering to a minimum.

How to propagate

Striped haworthy can be propagated by children, leaflets and seed method. The breeding process itself is best done in the spring.


In haworthia, as they grow, rosettes regularly appear on the sides, which take root near the mother plant.

Usually they are separated during transplantation:

  1. To do this, the roots are cleaned from the ground and a young shoot with a root is carefully separated.
  2. The place of separation must be treated with Fundazolum or sprinkled with activated carbon powder.
  3. Then such an escape is dried for a couple of hours.
  4. After they take a small pot with a drainage layer, as well as a small layer of soil.
  5. The shoot with roots is carefully placed in a pot and covered with soil.
  6. In conclusion, watered a little. Watering is done only along the walls of the pot so that moisture does not get on the outlet. The next watering should be done after the soil has completely dried, after about three weeks.

The daughter outlet can also be separated without removing the entire mother plant with a knife. The knife must always be taken sharp and disinfected with alcohol or a solution of manganese. The shoot is carefully cut and treated with Fundazol, and then planted in a pot.

Did you know? It is now very popular to decorate the interior with florariums and mini-gardens. For their decor, decorative painted sand and gravel, animal figures, mini houses and other miniatures are used. Often succulents are planted in them and create a desert or rocky landscape.


When choosing this method of reproduction, the selected leaves are carefully separated near the base with a knife or with your hands. The slice is treated with activated carbon powder. The leaves are dried for a couple of days, and then placed in wet sand in a small pot.

After such a planting, do not water for about 3-4 weeks. During this time, the leaves take root.


When choosing a seed propagation method, use only fresh seeds. This method is more time-consuming and not as productive as the previous ones.

Important! Seeds after 6 months lose their ability to germinate. Therefore, when buying seeds in specialized stores, pay attention to the expiration date.

Seeds are sown in a container with moistened sand. The container is covered on top with polyethylene or a glass jar, and then placed in a well-lit place, the recommended temperature regime is +20 ... + 25 ° C. Every day, the can is removed for 10-15 minutes for ventilation.

Shoots appear after about 30 days. After the sprouts appear, the jar or other shelter is removed. Six months later, picking plants.

You can propagate the striped haworthy in a seed way at any time, but it is best to choose spring-summer time, since during this period the sprouts do not need additional illumination.

Growing difficulties

Haworthia striped has good resistance to the appearance of many diseases and pests. Most often, problems arise with improper flower content.

You may encounter the following problems when growing this indoor plant:

  1. The appearance of rot. Often occurs due to excessive watering. This disease affects the roots and leaves. Dark spots appear on the flower. The frequency and amount of watering should be reduced. All affected areas are removed, and the places of the cuts are treated with charcoal. If the root system is affected, it is best to replace the soil and remove the rotted roots. It is also necessary to apply chemical preparations ("Fundazol", "Oksikhom").
  2. Loss of coloring and decorativeness. Occurs due to lack of light. The leaves of the plant begin to stretch, the rosette becomes loose, loses its decorative effect. In this case, the flower should be rearranged closer to the light.
  3. Brown spots on the leaves. They signal the appearance of sunburn. In this case, the flower pot must be moved to another place, protected from direct sunlight.
  4. Cessation of development and growth. During the rest period, the root system may “fall asleep”. Transplantation into new soil will help to activate the flower.
  5. Bending of leaves along the edges, stretching of leaves, dull color of growths. This occurs when in winter time (rest period) the temperature regime is higher than permissible. It is necessary to move the succulent to a cooler room with a temperature of about + 10 ° C.
  6. Drying the leaves and curling along the border. It occurs mainly due to increased temperature and dry air in the room. A glass cover is required to protect against too dry air and a pan tray with moistened pebbles.
  7. Changing the shape of a flower. Usually signals a lack of fertilizer or excessive growth. In this case, it is necessary to separate the daughter sockets, make a transplant and make the necessary dressings.
  8. Lethargy of leaves and their easy tearing. This suggests that haworthia is excessively watered. It is necessary to stop hydration.
  9. Loss of color, as well as when the leaves become yellow, red. Signals an excess of fertilizers, especially nitrogen. It is necessary to reduce the application of fertilizing - not more than 1 time in 30 days with a small nitrogen content.
  10. Leaves become soft and blacken. This phenomenon often occurs with severe drafts and cold. It is necessary to transfer the flower to a warmer room.
  11. Damage by insect pests (such as scale insects, aphids, spider mites, root bugs). All affected parts are removed, charcoal sections are treated. Then apply insecticides ("Actellik", "Actara"). It will be useful to replace the soil and transplant a succulent.

Growing haworthia in room conditions will not be difficult even for beginner gardeners. It is unpretentious and easy to breed, but it is important not to waterlog it.

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