Features strawberries varieties Florian F1
The berries of strawberries or, as strawberries are used to call this culture in our country, grow on the beds of almost any garden or garden. In this article, we will talk about the Dutch hybrid of strawberries Florian F1, it will give characteristics and a description of the variety, as well as give recommendations on choosing seedlings, describe planting methods and further care for plants.
Characterization and description of the variety
Garden strawberry Florian F1 is a Dutch hybrid of constant fruiting. Such varieties are classified as neutral daylight plants. In a greenhouse, they can grow crops throughout the year. This hybrid can be grown both from seeds and from seedlings. Florian F1 belongs to large-fruited varieties of berries. The fruits of this variety are one-dimensional and high quality.
Florian F1 belongs to productive varieties with large berries and early ripening. If the variety grows on well-fertilized soils, and the plants are provided with adequate lighting, optimal soil and air temperature, then each bush forms up to 1 kg of berries during the fruiting period. The shape of the berries is conical, slightly elongated, the color of the fruit is red. Strawberry bushes are not too high, their height does not exceed 30 cm.
Did you know? In Belgium, on the banks of the Meuse River, a strawberry museum has been opened and operates. The exposition is dedicated to this culture, traditional and unusual methods of growing strawberry bushes, as well as all kinds of recipes for preparing various dishes from strawberries.
The diameter of an adult, well-shaped bush varies between 30–35 cm. Due to the compact size of the bush, Florian F1 strawberries can be grown in pots, like a houseplant or in a cache-pot, as the vegetation that adorns a courtyard or patio. During cultivation in greenhouses or film tunnels, a hybrid of wild strawberries immediately, after a short period of adaptation following planting, begins flowering and the formation of berries.
On each plant at the same time more than 10 peduncles can form, on each of which no less than 7-12 flowers are developed. The plant forms large berries with tasty pulp, the average weight of berries is 18–20 g. The taste of fruits is sweet with a light, slightly sour, aftertaste. The berries are quite dense, but not "wooden." Fruiting is undulating, every 2 weeks a new batch of formed berries ripens. One of the unusual properties of this hybrid is its low ability to form a mustache.
Check out the Crown Strawberry variety.
So it was conceived when creating this variety. Such a variety will not endlessly clog the bed with a mustache and young rosettes. This feature simplifies the work of the gardener to care for strawberries. On average, each adult bush forms up to 40 mustaches during the growing season (for the whole year), on each of which 3-4 rosettes are located. That is, in the future, the gardener will be able to propagate and seed this variety without problems without resorting to the time-consuming cultivation of strawberry seedlings from seeds.
Advantages and disadvantages
Like many other Dutch hybrids, strawberry Florian F1 won the love of our country's gardeners with productivity and large-fruited. The variety also has minor flaws.
- Advantages of the Florian F1 Hybrid:
- the possibility of constant fruiting and growing from seeds;
- one-dimensional berries of good quality;
- high yield from each plant;
- small mustache formation;
- great taste;
- beautiful and unusual flowering;
- ability to withstand long-distance transportation;
- resistance to gray rot.
- The disadvantages of the Florian F1 hybrid:
- exactingness to cultivation agricultural technique;
- small mustache formation, which makes reproduction difficult.
Growing Features
Since this hybrid is very demanding on growing conditions, in order to obtain stable and high yields, the gardener needs to take care of the proper care of the strawberry plantation. Care requirements include: proper planting, watering, top dressing, shelter for the winter, protection against spring frost during flowering, mulching, prevention of diseases and pests, and timely fruit collection.
Read more about growing strawberries in winter.
Site and planting material selection
If the bed is located on fertile black soil, then as a preparation for planting the soil, it is necessary to loosen the soil. If the soil is sandy and poor in organic matter, it should be fertilized with manure or compost (about 4-5 kg / m²). Before breaking the garden, weeds must be removed, especially wheat grass and other perennial creeping weeds. Strawberries in the garden are best grown in a sunny place, on soil rich in humus, but light, even sandy, permeable to moisture and oxygen, slightly acidic (pH 5.5–6).
Such seedlings will have time to fully take root before the winter and will give a good harvest next year. If strawberries were planted in the spring (April-May), then in the first year of cultivation, the gardener cannot count on a large number of berries. The best crop of strawberry bushes is produced at 2-3 years of vegetation, therefore it is recommended to grow them in one place for only 3-4 years. Then strawberry seedlings should be planted in a new place.
Important! So that the strawberry conveyor does not interrupt due to the age of the bushes, it is recommended that the gardener lay a new garden every 2 years. While young bushes adapt and grow on the new bed, the old bed will have time to grow old and end fruiting.
Reproduction and planting
20 years ago, strawberries were planted in spring or autumn. Today, thanks to the development of technology, strawberries can be planted throughout the growing season. You can buy not only green seedlings (dug), but frigo plants, as well as potted plants. Therefore, only the type of strawberry seedlings depends on the time of planting and estimated fruiting.
Frigo seedlings - young strawberry plants have been dug up since autumn and stored in refrigerated cabinets with a temperature specially maintained in the right range. Frigo can be both with an open and a closed root system. It has a good survival rate and a quick entry into the fruiting period.
The relationship between the type of strawberry rosettes, planting date and fruiting time:
- Strawberries, planted from traditional (excavated) seedlings in late autumn or spring, for the first time will give only a symbolic crop. Only in the second year and in subsequent years, maximum productivity can be expected.
- Strawberries planted from frigo plants (planted from early spring to late June) give the first crop about 2 months after planting. The size of the crop depends on the thickness of the seedlings and the diameter of the crown (the thicker the seedlings, the higher the first crop). Next year, plants from frigo seedlings already bear fruit in the period characteristic of this variety.
- Potted plants are usually planted from early July to autumn, and also in spring, until the end of May. In this case, the first berries can be expected at a time characteristic of the variety, while the crop will depend on the date of planting. Of strawberries planted in spring or autumn, the first harvest, as in the case of seedlings (green), will be small. These plants will show full yield only next year. Summer planting of potted seedlings shortens the waiting period for a real full crop. Strawberries, planted with seedlings in pots in the summer (July, August), will reach its peak fruiting next year. Quick adaptation is an undeniable advantage of potted plants, this explains their growing popularity among gardeners.
On the one hand, I would like to plant bushes as densely as possible, in the hope of a high yield. On the other hand, there is a reasonable limit to the number of plants per unit area, and excessive compaction will cause individual plants to compete with each other for water and nutrients, and ripened berries will be smaller and not as sweet as they could be.
Important! The wide paths between the rows will facilitate the care of strawberry bushes - weeding, watering, spraying from diseases and pests, as well as picking berries.
In addition, due to the increased humidity in areas of overly densified plants, favorable conditions will be created for the development of various fungal infections, especially for gray mold. Experienced gardeners do not recommend planting more than 6 plants per 1 m².
Watering
Strawberries, like any other plants, should be watered when the crop needs it. When growing berries outdoors - the frequency of watering depends on the weather. Strawberries need the most water after flowering, as well as during strong growth and ripening of fruits (usually from late May to June). Lack of water during this period always leads to falling berries and a strong decrease in yield.
Of course, after fruiting there are periods of drought. Therefore, the culture needs to ensure soil moisture throughout the growing season, even in late autumn. It is worth remembering that all autumn, until the end of the growing season, this is the time when buds of flower buds are formed next year.
Read also about how to water strawberries frequently and correctly.
There is a simple correlation: the better the condition of the plants in autumn, the more flowers they form in spring. Therefore, there is no need to spare water under the strawberries, it needs to be watered as soon as the topsoil dries to a depth of 2-3 cm, and on hot summer days, daily.
Top dressing
If the soil of the bed is not enriched with organic matter, the culture can be fed with mineral fertilizers, such as azofoska or Florovit, in the amount of 40-60 g / m² in the first year of cultivation, 20-40 g / m² in subsequent years of the growing season. This amount of mineral fertilizing is divided into two portions, which are applied to the soil in the spring and after harvest, when the plants form buds for the next year.
Important! Mineral fertilizers are conveniently applied in liquid form. Any application of organic or mineral fertilizers is carried out only on moist soil, optimally, after abundant watering.
Plant care
Florian strawberries have a shallow root system, which, when grown in loose soil, is easily damaged by garden tools. In order to avoid weed control, contact of berries with the ground, and also to reduce the risk of plant infection by diseases, the soil in the aisles and between bushes should be mulched, for example, covered with straw.
The straw section (cut into pieces of 10–20 cm) is spread between the plants, at the end of the flowering period, with a layer of at least 15 cm. You can also use black spanbond for planting strawberries.
- Before planting, the garden bed is covered with one layer of black agrotextile and fixed along the perimeter, sprinkling the edges with soil.
- Then, with agrotextile, marking with chalk is carried out in places where the bushes will be located, after which cross-sectional sections are made in these places.
- When marking, observe the appropriate intervals between rows and plants.
- Strawberry seedlings are planted in the finished holes in the spunbond.
You can also grow strawberries in film or foil tunnels. This will accelerate the culture growing cycle by about two weeks, and as a result, accelerate the formation and ripening of berries. However, it must be remembered that during the flowering period of the plants, the film or foil coating must be peeled off or slightly opened so that insects can access and pollinate the flowers of strawberries.
Did you know? Strawberry plants reproduce, both with the help of seeds ripening on the surface of the berries, and vegetatively, with the help of mustaches and rosettes. Plants obtained by any of these propagation methods retain all the qualities of the mother plant.
Frozen flowers of garden strawberries are a common occurrence at the beginning or even in the middle of May. At this time, nighttime frosts occur, at which the soil temperature drops to -2 ° C. The buds and unblown buds withstand somewhat lower temperatures, up to -3 ° C.
On small amateur beds, the cost of shelter will not be high, and the effect of its use is very positive. Also, good results to protect the color of strawberries from frost are given by abundant watering or moist fog. In anticipation of low temperatures, strawberry beds are abundantly watered and covered with agrofiber, if the gardener has the opportunity, then watering is carried out not only before freezing, but also during frost.
Also read about how to use boric acid for strawberries during flowering.
After watering, a thin layer of ice forms on the surface of flowers and compounds, which will protect them from freezing. In addition, it is worth remembering that moist soil has a greater ability to accumulate heat, so that the air just above the soil (at an altitude of 10-15 cm) will have a higher temperature than if the soil were dry. If the flowers still died during the freezing on the strawberries, the plant should be immediately sprayed with Asahi SL at the rate of 10 ml / 100 m² and the spraying should be repeated twice after 7 and 14 days.
Preparing for the winter
To strawberry successfully wintered, experienced gardeners recommend covering the strawberry beds for winter with white agrotextile. It is advisable to choose the thickest agrotextile, i.e. P-50, for these purposes, but P-23 can also be used. It is also possible to cover the garden bed with ordinary straw or perforated film (for air access and prevention of aging).
Shelter is best done in late autumn or early winter, when the plants are at rest and the ground freezes. Of course, the coating will not provide wintering plants with temperatures above 0 ° C, but will protect them from freezing, drying out from the wind, and also reduce the amplitude of temperature fluctuations in the immediate vicinity of the bushes. Coating strawberry beds will create an acceptable microclimate and more or less constant wintering conditions, without sharp temperature fluctuations.
If a small bed of garden strawberries is grown in the country, then it is advisable for the gardener to find the best place for planting berries. It will be ideal if the plants are planted in a quiet place, not subject to strong winter winds, but, certainly, sunny. In such conditions and with an additional winter cover of the garden, strawberries have good chances for a good wintering even in very severe frosts.
Read also articles on this topic:
Another important condition for a successful wintering: in autumn and winter, the soil on which strawberries grow must be moist. The probability of freezing plants will be the higher, the greater the lack of moisture in the soil in winter. Therefore, there is a need to water strawberries, as necessary, until the end of the growing season.
Pest and Disease Control
Чтобы защитить клубнику от вредителей и болезней используют различные химические препараты (фунгициды, инсектициды, акарициды), а также биопрепараты. Оптимально защищать земляничные посадки только с использованием биологически чистых препаратов, так как химические вещества, в конечном итоге, оседают в организме потребителей ягод.
Read also our e-magazine on strawberry cultivation.
Если регулярно применять биопрепараты, которые рекомендованы опытными садоводами, то при правильном их применении (инструкция на каждой упаковке) они эффективно защитят клубнику от мучнистой росы, серой плесени, пятнистости листьев и от большинства вредителей:
- «Биосепт Актив» и «Spintor 240 SC» — продукты идентичного действия, оба получены в результате ферментации бактерий Saccharopolyspora spinosa. Это биологические инсектициды в виде концентрата суспензии для приготовления водного раствора. Препараты контактного действия, предназначенные для борьбы с грызущими листья и сосущими соки насекомыми-вредителями овощных и ягодных растений. Препараты работают на поверхности и глубоко в тканях растений. После нанесения действие растворов проявляется уже через несколько минут, гибель вредителей наступает через несколько часов.
- «Агриколь Концентрат» — продукт на основе раствора природных полисахаридов. Сочетает в себе действие инсектицида и фунгицида. Эффективно уничтожает вредителей (тлю, паутинных клещей, плодовых мух, белокрылку, личинки щитовки) и тормозит развитие заболеваний (серой плесени, мучнистой росы). Не вызывает устойчивости к вредителям и болезням в результате многократного использования. Так как препарат контактного действия, то необходимо тщательно опрыскивать всё защищаемое растение, особо внимательно относясь к нижней стороне листьев. Обработка препаратом не предусматривает льготного периода для людей и периода ожидания для опыления насекомыми.
- «Bioczos Iquid 500 мл Himal» — это натуральный жидкий экстракт чеснока, используемый для приготовления водных растворов. Он предназначен для экологического выращивания растений, без использования химической защиты. Рекомендуется опытными садоводами для опрыскивания растительных посадок и дезинфекции садовых инструментов. Для опрыскивания растений применяется использование раствора в концентрации 1–3%.
- «Vaxiplant Sl» — продукт усиливает устойчивость растений к болезнетворным микроорганизмам. После применения «Vaxiplant SL» растения вырабатывают резистентные белки, фитоалексины и лигнифицирующие клеточные стенки. Это системное средство, обладающее длительным эффектом, предназначенное для профилактического использования по защите клубники от серой плесени, мучнистой росы, белой и красной листовой пятнистости. Наносят препарат с помощью ручного опрыскивателя. Преимущества препарата: эффективная защита от патогенных микроорганизмов, возможность использования препарата во время сбора урожая, снижение риска размножения устойчивых патогенных микроорганизмов без применения обработки традиционными фунгицидами, препарат не оставляет следов на ягодах и других частях растений, а также полная безопасность для потребителя и окружающей среды.
- «Larvane» (бактериофора Heterorhabditis) — это паразитарная нематода, предназначенная для борьбы с личинками жуков подъедающими корни растений (земляничных кустов, луковичных культур).
Harvesting and storage of crops
Это, несомненно, самый приятный период во всем процессе выращивания и логическое завершение усилий садовода. Особенно радует первая созревшая клубника — долгожданная, крупная и очень сладкая. Клубнику следует собирать регулярно, в идеале — ежедневно.
Не стоит затягивать со сбором плодов, чтобы на кустах не было перезревших ягод, которые могут легко заразиться серой плесенью и не только испортятся сами, но и станут источником инфекции для других, здоровых плодов. У гибрида Флориан ягоды довольно плотные, но всё же их нужно собирать в неглубокую тару с гладкими стенками. В одном контейнере для сбора ягод должно помещаться не более 0, 5 кг плодов клубники.
Did you know? Употребление всего 8 ягод клубники в день может улучшить здоровье сердца, снизить артериальное давление, уменьшить воспаление в организме, и даже снизить риск развития рака.
Клубнику можно перевозить на дальние расстояния, но нужно делать это быстро и только в специализированных холодильных фургонах (при температуре +10...+12°C). Если соблюдён правильный температурный режим, ягоды сохранятся свежими в течение 3–5 дней. Дома ягоды клубники можно хранить в холодильном шкафу, используя специальный ящик для ягод и фруктов.
