Apple trees are the most common crop among fruit trees grown in the gardens of our country. Apples are loved by adults and children, thanks to their wonderful taste. This article will focus on the popular Idared apple variety, the characteristics of this variety, the proper planting of an apple seedling, and the rules for caring for mature apple trees.

Description of apple variety Idared

Variety Idared - American origin, obtained due to selection work with apple varieties Jonathan and Wagner. Idared belongs to the late (winter) varieties, and excellently bears fruit when grown in Ukraine, Poland, Belarus and the south of Russia. In some regions of Russia, this variety is known as Aldared . This apple variety is mainly grown in the south and in the middle zone of Russia, from where apples are later brought to the distribution network of the Far East and the Far North. Idared is very popular, it is appreciated for its ease of cultivation, good yield, tasty fruits and the ability to store crops without loss until spring.

Harvesting of a young tree begins very early, usually in the third year after planting. Idared bears fruit abundantly and annually . The tree blooms, depending on the weather, in the second half of April or early May.

Did you know? The founders of the famous Apple company argued for a long time, choosing the future name for the company, until Steve Jobs put an end to the debate. He, listening to the disputes of the co-owners, gnawed an apple - and, laying out the bitten fruit on the table, offered it as the future logo and company name. Trees of this variety grow strongly in the first years of vegetation, up to the first abundant harvest, after which the growth of wood weakens. The tree forms a crown of spherical shape, whose branches are prone to thickening, so the plant needs an annual clarifying and rejuvenating pruning. If we neglect the annual pruning, half of the freshly set apples will partially crumble due to lack of lighting.

Apple trees Idared belong to vigorous

The trunk of the tree is covered with gray bark, which has a smooth surface. The height of the trunk of an adult apple tree reaches at least 3 m, and often exceeds this indicator. The upper part of the leaf plate is slightly rough, painted in green. The lower part of the sheet has a smoother structure, painted in a lighter, gray-green color.

Idared blooms in large pink and white flowers, flowering lasts for 6-10 days, depending on the ambient temperature. In the heat, flowering ends faster. During the flowering of the apple tree, a sweet, pleasant aroma spreads around the tree, to which hundreds of bees flock.

The variety is resistant to apple scab, but is very sensitive to powdery mildew, so trees need chemical protection .

Regions with a mild climate are more suitable for cultivating varieties.

Fruit Characteristics

Fruits have excellent keeping quality, are well stored without loss of taste and decay. Apples have a strong, thick, very shiny, bright yellow peel with a greenish tint during the period of technical ripeness. The color of the peel during the period of biological maturity, occurring during storage, gradually turns into bright red, with a blurred blush.

Apples of medium and large size (140-190 g), spherical, slightly flattened, attached to the branches with a short stalk. Apple flesh is white, with a creamy tint, fine-grained, juicy, hard, sweet and sour.

Idared fruits are of high commercial quality.

Pros and cons of the variety

Compared to other varieties of apples, the Idared variety has both advantages and some disadvantages.

• Varietal advantages:
• self-fertility;
• annual fertility;
• good storage of fruits;
• resistance to scab;
• great taste of fruits.

• Varietal disadvantages:
• late ripening time;
• susceptibility to powdery mildew disease.

Optimal conditions for growing

In order for the apple crop to be high in quantity and quality, trees need to create favorable conditions for vegetation. It is important for each apple tree to have space for root and crown growth, therefore, the distance between the trees in the garden should be at least 5-6 m. The location of the fruit tree should be chosen so that the apple tree is illuminated by the sun during the day and protected from the cold northern winds of any structure.

Video: Apple tree planting instructions

Pollinators

Idared is a largely self-pollinating variety. This means that the apple tree does not necessarily require a pollinator for fruiting, but if the gardener wants to achieve stable and intensive fruiting, he needs to plant such pollinators as apple trees of varieties: Macintosh, Cortland, Red Deliches, Gloucester, Wagner near the Idared variety.

Winter apple varieties also include:

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Productivity

Young apple trees that have reached the age of five annually grow up to 30 kg of apples. The yield of apple trees older than 10 years increases to almost 90 kg per season. After the trees reach the age of 30 years, the yield begins to decrease slightly, with each year the quantity and quality of fruits decrease.

Frost resistance

The adult tree of the Idared variety has excellent resistance to low temperatures and can tolerate temperatures up to -25 ° C without damage to the wood and root system . Gardeners growing this apple tree variety in regions where winter frosts often fall below -25 ° C, it is recommended to warm the root zone of the plant with an additional layer of soil or mulch. In cold regions, the crown of young trees is also insulated for the winter.

Did you know? As the popular version says, thanks to the blow of an apple that fell on his head, Sir Isaac Newton was able to formulate the famous Newton's law, now known to every student.

Planting and caring for an apple tree

In order for the apple tree to please the owner of the garden with a harvest for several decades, it is necessary to choose and plant a healthy seedling correctly, and then provide the young tree with the necessary care, such as: watering, fertilizing, pruning and protection from pests.

Landing rules

First of all, a gardener who wants to plant an Idared apple tree in his garden is advised to purchase planting material only in fruit nurseries with a good reputation. Such seedlings will be healthy, not infected with bacterial or fungal diseases.

When choosing a seedling, you need to pay attention to such indicators:

1. The root system of a young tree should be branched, and have 2-3 thick roots and many thin.
2. When twisting, the roots should wrap around the finger and not break.
3. On the cut, the root wood should be light and juicy.
4. The trunk of the tree should not have mechanical damage, mold or ulcers.
5. At the bottom of the trunk, the site of grafting the varietal cuttings to the wild should be well tracked.
6. There should be no leaves on the seedling, if they are still present, they must be carefully cut with a secateurs before planting.

Important! You should not buy a seedling of an apple tree on which the fruits grow. Fruiting is unacceptable for the seedling, and can lead to further difficult adaptation or death of the plant after planting.

When choosing a place to plant an apple tree, it is best to prefer the south or southeast . With such a location, the tree will always have enough sunlight. It is undesirable to plant an apple tree in a place accessible to the winds from the north, as in this case in the future the tree may suffer from freezing frost during flowering.

If several apple trees will be planted, it is necessary to observe a distance of 5-6 m between them. If this is not done, then when the trees grow, they will mutually shade each other, they will simply lack lighting.

We plant the apple tree correctly:

1. Landing pit. The planting pit should have a depth of at least 50–70 cm. To determine whether the volume of the planting pit is sufficient for the seedling is very simple. It is necessary to place the seedling inside the planting pit, if the earthen walls do not constrain the roots, then the width is enough. Then, humus (at least one bucket), 100 g of superphosphate and calcium, is placed in the landing pit. Fertilizers mix well with the soil. Then they add a couple of shovels of fertile soil from the surface of the soil to the bottom of the pit and lay them in the center in the form of a small hill.
   

2. The seedling is set in the center of the planting pit on a soil elevation, around which the roots are evenly laid out, after which they begin to fill the planting pit with soil. In the process of filling the pit, the apple tree seedlings are periodically gently shaken to uniformly settle the soil on the roots. During planting, it is necessary to ensure that the vaccination site is not covered with soil and is on the surface. Also, during planting, simultaneously with the seedling, a high support peg is installed in the planting pit.
   

3. Around the planted tree in the soil form a small depression in the root zone, necessary for the convenience of future irrigation. The planted apple tree is watered by pouring at least 1 bucket of water under the root. After the water is absorbed into the ground and settles, the landing pit is still covered with earth as necessary.
   
   If the apple tree is planted in the spring, then the seedlings must be watered for a long time so that they take root well and do not suffer from the heat
4. Using a soft rope, a peg is tied together to support a tree and an apple tree. The peg will serve as a support for the apple tree from strong winds. The garter is removed only after a few years, when the tree grows.

Fig. 1 - the process of planting a seedling, Fig. 2 - correctly planted seedling

Watering and feeding

The root system of the apple tree should be regularly fed with nutrients, so every year the apple tree is fertilized with organic and mineral substances . As organics, well-rotted cattle manure or bird concentrate liquid concentrate is used. To make humus or rotted manure during autumn digging, it is enough to evenly spread dry organic matter on the soil surface around the trunk, forming a circle with a diameter of 1 m. For an adult tree, 15–20 kg of humus or manure is enough. The introduction of liquid top dressing combined with watering a tree. Important! Feeding on bird droppings is a very strong, concentrated fertilizer. Before use, the concentrate is diluted with water in a ratio of 1:20, that is, 0.5 l of concentrate is added to a bucket of water.

Preparation of concentrated liquid top dressing:

1. A large capacity is filled up to half with bird droppings (chicken, goose, pigeon, duck). Fill the container with water so that at least 15 cm of free space remains between the liquid and the edge of the container. Fermentation processes will occur in the tank, respectively, the liquid level will rise significantly. Free space is necessary so that the liquid fertilizer does not overflow over the edge of the tank. The contents of the tank are mixed well with a wooden pole, after which the container is tightly closed with a lid. The liquid fertilizer tank closes to prevent nitrogen loss.
2. The container with the contents is left for 7-10 days for fermentation. The tank must be installed in a sunny, sheltered from the wind. This is a prerequisite for initiating the fermentation process. The preparation time for feeding depends on the weather (air temperature, the presence of the sun).
3. The contents of the tank are mixed daily by releasing carbon dioxide. The readiness of the nutrient solution can be determined by partially calming the fermentation process.

Apple trees need regular watering, only under this condition they will form a sufficient amount of fruit ovary. They need irrigation during the warm season (from spring to autumn inclusive). Each month, for each adult tree, at least 20–30 liters of water should be supplied; for young apple trees up to 5 years old, 15–20 liters of water is sufficient.

Pruning

Throughout the entire life cycle, the apple tree requires constant pruning. Immediately after planting a seedling, a four-year cycle of crown formation begins:

• year of planting - the top of the seedling is trimmed by 15–20 cm;
• 2nd year of vegetation - three well-developed lateral branches are left on the seedling, all the rest are cut, these branches will be the main (second order);
• 3rd year of vegetation - the growth of young branches of the third order, grown on the skeletal branches of an apple tree, is cut, leaving three of the most developed branches;
• 4th year of vegetation - cut off the tips of all branches of the third order by 5-10 cm and remove the entire growth of this year.

When the crown is formed, all subsequent years the apple tree requires a trimming procedure 2 times a year . Cutting of an adult tree is carried out in the spring and in the fall. Spring pruning allows you to well lighten the crown and facilitate access of both light and air to the plant. Also, during spring pruning, broken, cracked or split branches damaged by winter snow load are removed. Important! Leaves collected in the garden, under fruit trees, are not recommended to be placed in a compost heap, since apple leaves, dry fruits, branches, may contain spores of fungal diseases, pathogens of bacterial diseases, eggs and pest larvae. In autumn, sanitary pruning of fruit trees is carried out, shrunken and diseased branches are cut, sick, mummified fruits hanging on the branches are cut . The area under the trees is also cleaned, during which the rake of the soil is cleaned of fallen leaves and crumbling rotten fruits. It is recommended to remove plant residues from the garden or destroy it with fire. Such measures are necessary in order to prevent the spread of disease in the garden in the future.

Video: Pruning an apple tree in autumn

Whitewash

Gardeners know that a whitewashing procedure is needed to reduce the risk of sunburn and bark disinfection.

For whitewashing trunks, there are several options for the mixture:

1. Add 1 kg of quicklime to a bucket of water, stir the contents of the container well, wait until the lime redemption reaction is completed, and the mixture boils down, then 100 g of copper sulfate is added. The mixture is ready to use.
2. Mix half a bucket of water with 2-3 kg of dry clay, mix well, then add fresh horse manure (about one shovel) to the mashroom and mix thoroughly again. Ready-to-use mixture should resemble homemade sour cream in consistency. If the mixture is too thick, add a little water, too liquid - add clay.

Read also how to make an apple tree blossom and bear fruit.

The mixture is applied to the trunk of an apple tree, starting from the ground and ending just above the location of the skeletal branches . The main (skeletal) branches are also treated with this composition to a length of about 50–70 cm. It is convenient to use a wide paint brush to apply whitewash to the apple tree.

Winter preparations

Usually gardeners plant zoned apple trees in the garden that are well adapted to the climate and do not require frost protection. But this applies only to adult trees, young apple trees up to 3 years old require winter shelter, especially in areas with long and cold winters. Did you know? The famous Russian breeder I.V. Michurin successfully cultivated pear cuttings grafted on an apple tree. As a result of the vaccination, a few years later pears grew on the apple tree. Warming and protection of a young apple tree for the winter:

1. Roots - warming organic materials, such as spruce spruce branches, bundles of straw, sawdust, are laid on the soil in the periostemal circle.
2. Crohn - branches in several layers are wrapped with any non-woven material, such as spunbond or agrofiber. This material is well insulated, and will not allow branches to freeze, while not blocking the access of air and moisture to the tree bark.
3. Trunk - impose suitable diameter plastic shields, fine metal mesh or thick automotive rubber and secure them with wire in the upper and lower parts of the trunk. It is important that the shields completely cover the young trunks from the base to a height of 1 m. Plastic, mesh or rubber serve as protection against the sharp teeth of hares and mice.

Diseases and Pests

Fruit trees during the growing season are sometimes attacked by pests. Also, under suitable weather conditions, various diseases can develop on trees and fruits.

We recommend reading how to get rid of rotting apples.

Common apple diseases:

1. Scab (Venturia inaequalis) - the cause of the disease is spores of the fungus wintering on last year's leaves lying on the ground. Spores of the fungus are spread by the wind, their development is promoted by high humidity. Apple tree Idared has partial resistance to this disease, but sometimes the tree still gets sick. Symptoms: yellow or discolored spots on the leaves, dark olive spots on the fruits, velvety neoplasms on the underside of the leaves, twisting and deformation of the leaves, shedding of leaves from the tree may be present. Methods of control: removal and burning of fallen leaves in the fall. To accelerate the decay of foliage, it may be necessary to add urea and zinc to the soil in September, then the fallen and collected leaves are sprinkled with lime. It is also possible to use drugs with fungicides or Bordeaux mixture.
   

2. Black cancer (Botryosphaeria obtusa) - the development of the disease provokes a fungus. The disease manifests itself in the form of randomly located brown spots with a bright center and dark borders on the leaves. На фруктах очаги болезни могут выглядеть как пурпурные или коричневые по центру и фиолетовые по краям пятна. Споры грибка могут зимовать в ветках или мумифицированных плодах, оставшихся на дереве, и распространяться по саду во время дождя. Как бороться: необходимо удалять мёртвую или заражённую древесину и высохшие фрукты с деревьев, чтобы уменьшить распространение болезни, сжигать все древесные обрезки. Болезнь можно контролировать, регулярно применяя фунгициды в период от набухания почек на яблоне до сбора урожая.
   

3. Ржавчина яблони (Gymnosporangium tremelloides Hartig) — грибковое заболевание, сопровождающееся появлением ярко-оранжевых или жёлтых пятен на верхней стороне листовой пластины. По периметру пятна окружены красной границей, внутри пятен окраска чёрная. К середине лета на поверхности листьев появляется налёт мицелия, из которого в дальнейшем выделяются споры гриба. В борьбе с ржавчиной яблони применяют препараты, содержащие фунгициды.
   

4. Мучнистая роса (Podosphaera leucotricha) — грибковое заболевание, споры грибка зимуют в почках яблони. Распространение спор происходит с помощью ветра. Как бороться: обрезать заражённые побеги, пока они находятся в состоянии покоя ранней весной, проводить опрыскивание фунгицидами на стадии розового бутона, также можно провести органические обработки ствола и ветвей растворами, состоящими из воды, извести и серы.
   

5. Бактериальный ожог — причиной болезни является бактерия, зимующая в коре или язвах на стволе и ветвях. Бактерии распространяются с насекомыми, ветром и дождём. Больное растение выглядит как после поражения огнём. На коре и ветвях могут появиться водянистые выделения. Что предпринять: садоводу нужно вырезать больную древесину, обработать ствол и ветви бордоской смесью. Для предотвращения распространения бактериального заболевания может потребоваться опрыскивание деревьев препаратами, содержащими медь или стрептомицин во время цветения.
   

Вредители яблони:

1. Тля (Aphis) — листососущие мелкие насекомые, питающиеся клетками растения. Располагаются на нижней стороне листьев или на молодых побегах, окрашены в зелёный, жёлтый или чёрный цвет. Тля выделяет липкое, сладкое вещество, называемое медовой росой, способствующее росту сажистой плесени на растениях. Что делать: если популяция тли ограничена несколькими листьями или побегами, заражение может быть сокращено обычным удалением заражённых частей растения. Также можно смывать тлю с дерева сильным напором воды из шланга. Инсектициды применяются против тли, если степень заражения дерева очень высокая. Можно обработать яблоню раствором воды и инсектицидного мыла или горькими травяными настоями (на полыни, на жгучем перце).
   

2. Личинки или гусеницы — появляются из яиц плодовой моли или листовертки. Увидеть присутствие вредителя в фруктах можно невооружённым взглядом. Об этом свидетельствуют дыры в плодах, отверстия могут быть заблокированы рассыпчатой коричневой тканью (экскрементами насекомых) или запечатаны втянутым внутрь норки листком. Углубление в плоде может быть незначительным или глубоким, простирающимся до ядра яблока. Личинка — телесная или розовая гусеница с коричневой головой, длина её тела может достичь 1, 3 см. Интенсивность размножения у этих насекомых 2–4 поколения в год. Как бороться: ежегодно методом обрезки осветлять крону, чтобы гарантировать попадание инсектицидов на все ветки, тем самым способствуя уничтожению личинок. Удалять в саду сорняки, на которых без помех размножаются насекомые, удалять с деревьев заражённые плоды вручную, прежде, чем личинки покинут фрукты. Это поможет уменьшить популяцию насекомых. Также следует использовать инсектициды.
   

Harvesting and storage of crops

Айдаред — позднезимний сорт, плоды достигают технической зрелости в конце сентября или октябре, в это же время происходит уборка урожая. Яблоки укладывают на хранение в специально оборудованное помещение, где температура постоянно находится в диапазоне +6...+10°C. Там фрукты постепенно дозревают, приобретая более яркий вкус и аромат.

Рекомендованный срок потребления яблок сорта Айдаред — январь . Благодаря плотной консистенции яблочной мякоти, производитель может без потерь перевозить плоды на дальние расстояния из регионов, где их выращивают.

Important! Садоводу нужно помнить, что нельзя использовать обработку яблони любыми химическими веществами, если до сбора урожая осталось всего несколько недель.

Tips from experienced gardeners

Вокруг стволов взрослых яблонь перед приходом зимы проводят перекопку почвы . Перекапывание почвы делает её более рыхлой, воздухо и влагопроницаемой, одновременно процедура переносит на поверхность грунта зимующих насекомых и личинок. В последствие вредящие насекомые замерзнут с приходом морозов или же будут съедены птицами. Часто вскапывание грунта совмещают с внесением органических удобрений в прикорневой слой.

Несколько скворечников, установленных в саду, весной будут заселены птицами, которые всё лето будут спасать сад от листоверток и плодожорки. Также садоводу стоит приобрести в специализированных магазинах яйца божьих коровок и поместить их в домиках, специально предназначенных для насекомых. Появившиеся из яиц божьи коровки надёжно защитят яблони от яблоневой тли.

Посадка одного или нескольких яблоневых деревьев сорта Айдаред, при правильном уходе, обеспечит садовода и его семью ежегодным урожаем полезных и вкусных яблок. Особенно привлекательным является то, что эти яблоки могут храниться практически до следующего урожая плодов.

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ДОСТОИНСТВА: Сладкие, сочные, мягкая кожура

DISADVANTAGES: No

Доброго времени суток уважаемые друзья и читатели. Хочу сегодня рассказать про вкусные яблоки Удовице "Айдаред". Я уже рассказывала про не менее вкусные яблоки "Роял Гала". Довольно часто покупаю яблочки Айдаред для вкусного яблочного пирога под названием шарлотка. Эти яблочки как по мне лучше всего подходят для выпечки, хотя и просто кушать тоже очень нравятся. В этот раз будучи в супермаркете, взяла уже фасованные яблочки и удивилась небольшой цене, так как обычно этот сорт в разы больше стоит. Но уже дома я увидела что яблочки второго сорта, внешне хоть и не сильно презентабельные, а вот для пирога и компота яблоки подошли в самый раз. Яблочки сочные, хрустящие, но мягкие. Вкус у яблок сладкий и нравится мне этот сорт тем что они не имеют кислинки. В целом вкусные яблочки и для выпечки в самый раз. Поэтому рекомендовать к покупке могу. Всем спасибо за внимание. katruwa //otzovik.com/review_5884564.html