Dates and basic rules for grape transplant in autumn

The vine is grown for the sake of juicy berries, for fresh consumption and processed. To do this, you need to choose the right landing site, the right time and not make mistakes that can ruin the culture.

Features and basic rules of autumn grape transplant

If necessary, the vine is transplanted in spring and autumn. Experienced growers prefer the second option. Weather advantage of the season: traditionally it’s the rainy season. Wet ground is malleable at work; the planting process itself is easier than in spring. Again, watering is not a concern, since there is enough rainfall to moisten the soil.

A planted plant at the beginning of autumn, several months before winter, gradually gets used to lowering air and soil temperatures.

A vine planted in the spring may suffer from return frosts, may not have time to take root and suffer from the summer heat. Autumn transplantation will allow to grow new roots during the winter, wintering will strengthen and harden the plant.

In order for the vineyard to develop normally, planting bushes is necessary, observing a number of rules:

  1. It is recommended to dig up bushes together with a soil lump. If the procedure is completed without preserving the soil on the roots, then for two years after transplantation, pruning and pinching of inflorescences should not be carried out. Exception sanitary procedure for cleaning the bush.
  2. Before planting, you need to process, clean and nourish the soil.
  3. Wells are prepared a month before the manipulation, so that the soil has time to sag. Otherwise, the settling soil will lead to a deepening of the roots of the vine.
  4. It is necessary to prepare not only the ground, but also the bush itself, to inspect, prune the roots.
  5. When replanting bushes of wild ornamental grapes, consider the rapid growth of vines. Compared with a cultural relative, the vine per year gives up to 3 m of growth.
  6. Often a transplant is performed, choosing an initially unsuccessful site. Therefore, the next time, moving the bush from one place to another, make sure that there is good lighting, the location of groundwater and the security of the site.

Did you know? A 500 lira coin issued during the reign of Pope John Paul II (1979–2005) shows a bunch of grapes.

Dates and optimal age

In which month to transplant grapes - it depends on the region. The main condition is that the roots adapt well: choose the moment when the earth is still warm in summer. In the south, the first decade of November is considered ideal, when the vine goes into a dormant state, but the roots still develop. In the middle lane, frosts come earlier, so the optimal period here is September-October.

Old bushes need to be replanted very carefully, since it is impossible to guess how much the root system has grown. When digging up, there is a high risk of damaging the roots. And it may take several years to recover. An adult consider a vine older than 7 years. It is recommended to move young plants from the age of one year.

Learn more about grape transplant rules.

Transplant Methods

At any age, moving the bush is stress for the plant. Therefore, it is necessary to approach the choice of the procedure method as responsibly as possible. There are only three methods:

  • with a large lump of soil;
  • with partially shortened;
  • with open roots.
At the same time, digging a bush, take into account the volume of its root system, which again depends on age. More on this below.

Did you know? A bunch of grapes or vines is depicted on the arms of cities of different countries: Lublin (Poland), Raisins (Ukraine), Violes (France), Codru (Moldova), Portesuelo (Chile).

How to transplant grapes in the fall to another place

For the nursery you need to choose a well-lit, preferably a shallow place. Given the long root system, the location of groundwater should be at least 2.5 m from the surface of the soil. An ideal option would be on the south, southeast and southwest side.

Site preparation

Planting holes are prepared a month before the intended movement of the vine. When digging holes, observe a distance between plants of 2 m, between rows of 2.5 m. Planting depth from 60 cm to 80 cm. Half of the finished hole is filled with a mixture of soil and fertilizers:

  • chernozem - 10 kg;
  • humus - 5 kg;
  • superphosphate - 250 g;
  • wood ash - 250 g.
After that, each hole is shed so that a liquid forms in the pit. Add the remaining soil mixture, not reaching the edge of about 40 cm, and water again.

Digging bushes

To work with the vine, all garden tools must be decontaminated.

With a lump of earth

A few days before the procedure, watering is stopped so that the soil has time to dry, but not completely dry. When digging a two-year bush with a soil lump, they retreat from the trunk 30–40 cm, the depth of the lump is 60 cm. Before planting, the bush is cut to 2-3 buds. Three-year-old bushes with horses penetrate deeper, so the radius from the trunk is 50-60 cm, and the digging depth is up to 90 cm. When pruning, leave up to 5 buds.

Important! When trimming sleeves, all sections must be treated with garden varnish so as not to cause infection.

With partially bare roots

The method is similar to the above. Part of the soil with a coma covering the root system can crumble in two cases:

  • the first is too dry ground;
  • the second - roots that have grown in different directions, did not allow the earth to braid itself.
After excavation, sleeves and shoots are also trimmed, and damaged roots are trimmed.

With completely bare roots

The method is suitable for adult bushes from 4 years with a developed root system. They dig a bush, retreating 50 cm from the trunk. The soil lump is shaken off by tapping the trunk, while it is not advisable to damage the boom that was under the surface of the soil. The roots are shortened to 25-30 cm, treated with var. Before planting, dipped in clay mash.

Landing pattern

If the sapling has stood for some time and dried up, before planting the roots need to be kept for about 2 days in water, then dip in a growth stimulator (Epin). Further sequence of actions:

  1. Vine seedlings are placed on a piled hill of soil.
  2. The roots are neatly straightened.
  3. Fall asleep to the pit to half the volume.
  4. They watered a bucket of water and wait until the moisture is absorbed.
  5. Next, seedlings with a closed root system are covered with soil, leaving 10 cm to the soil surface.
  6. Saplings with a partially or completely open root system fall asleep, leaving 20 cm to the edge of the pit.
  7. After being watered again.

Video: Grape Transplant

Follow-up care

In the absence of rainfall before winter, both young and old transplanted bushes need watering, a bucket of bush. Fertilizing before wintering is not necessary, especially since when planting fertilizers were placed in pits. Bushes need to be covered for the winter, even frost-resistant varieties. They cover it with mowed grass with dry leaves, spruce spruce branches or agrospan.

In the spring, after removing the shelter, the vine is fed for the first time with mineral fertilizer with the complex:

  • nitrogen - 50 g;
  • potassium salt - 30 g;
  • superphosphate - 40 g.
The first watering begins in March, if the winter was not snowy. If there was enough rainfall, then it is watered for the first time in April.

Important! Water should be warm not lower than + 20 ° С, otherwise the root system may become sick.

Further care is standard: watering, top dressing. Pruning is carried out throughout the season:

  • in the spring - sanitary;
  • in summer - formative;
  • in the fall - pruned for a successful wintering.

The growing vine needs a garter, the best option is a trellis with horizontal jumpers.

Check out the spring pruning features.

In general, grape transplantation is a simple procedure. A well-groomed and properly planted vine will respond to the care with a high-quality, healthy crop.

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